How to Plant Fruit Trees
Plant Guide
Growing fruit trees on your landscape is a rewarding practice with many practical benefits. Edible plants attract wildlife and pollinators, and their fallen fruit helps fertilize your soil, improving the health of your lawn. Additionally, you are supporting a healthy and self-sustaining lifestyle by growing and harvesting your own fresh fruit. It can take 3 to 5 years for your tree or shrub to mature and produce fruit, so follow these practical steps to plant an orchard of your very own.
Ground Rules
Light
Plant your fruit tree in a location that receives 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day. If you are planting your fruit tree in a container so you can bring it inside in the winter, it will still need 6 to 8 hours of bright light while it is inside.
Water
While your roots are being established, water deeply once a week during the first growing season. After the first growing season, your tree will be more equipped to withstand longer periods of drought. Monitor carefully during intensely hot weather or heavy rainy seasons, and adjust accordingly.
Soil
Well drained, fertile soil is ideal. For heavy-clay or dense soils, till the soil to a depth of at least 2 feet and add compost or other materials that improve drainage.
Food
Depending on the type of tree and the soil quality, you may want to add organic nutrients to the soil before planting. There are great starter fertilizers that will introduce beneficial elements to your native soil. After you see 6 to 8 inches of growth, begin a regular feeding schedule with a fruit or citrus tree fertilizer.
Temperature
Spring is the ideal time to plant fruit trees, after the ground has thawed from winter. This gives its roots ample time to establish before the next winter.
Toxicity
If you are planting an edible fruit tree, keep in mind many of the seeds of our favorite fruits are toxic when ingested.
Mulch
It is a good idea to keep a thick mulch cover around your tree to diminish weeds and keep the soil moist. Arrange the mulch so that there are 2 to 3 inches over the drip line of the tree, and so that there is about 1 inch of space around the trunk.
Planting Process
- Consider your site location's needs and plan accordingly. Map out where you want to place your trees, and make sure there will be ample growing room for when they are mature.
- Test the pH of your soil before you receive your trees so you have ample time to retrieve any necessary soil amendment materials you may need.
- When you receive your plant, unbox, place it outdoors in the shade and water thoroughly. You do not need to take it out of the nursery pot yet, let your tree acclimate to this new area briefly.
- Choose your location based on light requirements and mature size. Make sure you plant far enough from your property line and away from power lines to account for mature growth.
- Prepare the soil and dig a hole as deep as your pot or rootball and twice as wide. Do so the day before you plan to plant your tree. Amend your soil at the bottom of the hole to add nutrition or increase drainage.
- Place tree in center of hole and backfill pit around root ball with 50% existing soils from planting pit and 50% enriched topsoil for best results.
- Brace your tree with a pair of wooden stakes on either side of the tree. Tie the trunk to the stakes to keep it safe from strong wind gusts. Your sapling should be strong enough to remove the stakes in about two years. Protect the young trunk from the staking ties by covering the ropes with peices of cut garden hose.
- Water again thoroughly saturating rootball, and follow up water every other day for first two weeks, then 2 times per week thereafter during 60 day period of establishment.
- Apply a starter fertilizer at specified label rate.
- Topdress with 1 to 2 inches of shredded hardwood mulch or pine fines. Mound the mulch like a donut under the dripline, and leave 1 inch of space around the trunk.
Planting Fruit Trees
Planting fruit trees can be surprisingly simple if you follow a few basic principles. Choosing the right tree for your planting site, checking soil drainage, and preparing the ground will get you far in ensuring the success of your orchard.
As you choose your location in the early spring, it is a good idea to check your soil composition before planting. If you have heavy clay soil, till the soil and add in peat moss to encourage better drainage. We also recommend performing a pH test on the soil , in case you need to add an acidifier or make the soil more alkaline - check the care recommendations for your specific tree to see what they prefer. Planning your layout early is also the perfect time to map out any walkways or other hardscape elements, so that you can sit and enjoy your orchard for years to come.
When the tree arrives, unbox and place it in a shady spot and water if needed so it can acclimate to its new area while you prepare. Dig your hole twice the width of the rootball but no deeper. When you tree is in position and you have backfilled the hole, the top of the soil from your existing pot should remain visible so that the base of the tree can stay dry and get the air circulation it needs. Once planted, thoroughly water the site and add more soil if necessary. You want the roots to get a good, deep soaking but do not want to overwater and risk root rot.
After staking your sapling and adding mulch, your next consideration is monitoring watering and deciding how to prune your fruit tree. Monitoring how much you water will entirely depend on the weather in your area, and on how quickly or slowly water drains in your local soil. A good rule of thumb is to water once the top 2 to 3 inches have become dry to the touch, and then water for a 5 second count for every gallon size your tree arrived in. A 5 gallon pot needs 25 seconds of water, a 10 gallon pot 50 seconds, etc. Pruning should not be necessary until the following year, unless there are any branches that block airflow or cross against another branch.
The age a tree begins to produce fruit depends entirely on the type of tree. Some trees will have a small yield the very first year you have them, others will take up to 5 years before you see your return on investment. With time and patience you are now well on your way to enjoying your own food for 20 to 50 years or more.
Can you plant different fruit trees next to each other?
How close together can you plant fruit trees?
I live in an apartment / I can only plant in containers. Can I still plant fruit and nut trees?
Fruit and Nut Trees for Sale Online
Tree | Mature Height | Hardiness Zone |
---|---|---|
American Persimmon Tree | 12 to 15 feet tall | Growzone 7-11 |
Dunstan Chestnut | 40 to 60 feet tall | Growzone 6-9 |
Chinese Chestnut | 40 to 60 feet tall | Growzone 6-9 |
Granny Smith Apple Tree | 18 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 5-9 |
Redhaven Peach Tree | 20 to 25 feet tall | Growzone 5-8 |
Red Gala Apple Trees | 18 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 3-8 |
Paw Paw Tree | 20 to 30 feet tall | Growzone 6-11 (3 - 11 in containers) |
Sweet Southern Cherry Trees | 10 to 12 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Monroe Avocado Tree | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Meyer Lemon Trees | 8 to 10 feet tall | Growzone 8-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Key Lime Trees | 6 to 12 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Satsuma Tangerine Trees | 8 to 12 feet tall | Growzone 8-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Owari Satsuma Mandarin Trees | 10 to 12 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Rio Red Grapefruit Trees | 8 to 10 feet tall | Growzone 8-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Navel Orange Trees | 8 to 12 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Moro Blood Orange | 10 to 15 feet tall | Growzone 8 - 11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Red Navel Orange | 7 to 10 feet tall | Growzone 8 - 11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Seto Satsuma Orange | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Miho Satsuma Orange | 10 to 12 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Hamlin Sweet Orange | 8 to 10 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Sunburst Tangerine | 12 to 14 feet tall | Growzone 8-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Orlando Tangelo | 12 to 14 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Clementine Mandarin | 10 to 12 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Anna Apple | 20 to 25 feet tall | Growzone 6-9 |
Arbequina Olive | 14 to 18 feet tall | Growzone 7-10 (4 - 10 in containers) |
Hass Avocado | 20 to 30 feet tall (Only 5 to 7 feet tall in containers) |
Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Loquat | 25 to 30 feet tall | Growzone 8-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Sea Grape | 35 to 50 feet tall, 4 to 5 feet tall in containers | Growzone 10-11 (5 - 11 in containers) |
Fuji Apple | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 5-9 |
Honeycrisp Apple | 12 to 15 feet tall | Growzone 3-8 |
Golden Delicious Apple | 20 to 25 feet tall | Growzone 5-9 |
Red Delicious Apple | 20 to 25 feet tall | Growzone 5-9 |
McIntosh Apple | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 4-9 |
Pink Lady Apple | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 5-9 |
Sweet Sixteen Apple | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 3-8 |
Winesap Apple | 12 to 15 feet tall | Growzone 5-9 |
Ponderosa Lemon | 12 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Eureka Variegated Pink Lemon | 10 to 15 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Kaffir Lime | 8 to 10 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Persian Lime | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 9-11 (4 - 11 in containers) |
Harvester Peach | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 6-9 |
Elberta Peach | 12 to 15 feet tall | Growzone 5-9 |
Belle of Georgia Peach | 20 to 25 feet tall | Growzone 5-9 |
Moonglow Pear | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 5-9 |
Kikusui Pear | 12 to 15 feet tall | Growzone 5-9 |
Kieffer Pear | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 5-8 |
Bartlett Pear | 15 to 20 feet tall | Growzone 5-8 |
Brown Turkey Fig | 10 to 15 feet tall | Growzone 6-10 |
Tanenashi Persimmon | 12 to 15 feet tall | Growzone 7-9 |
Fuyu Persimmon | 12 to 15 feet tall | Growzone 7-11 |
Suruga Persimmon | 10 to 14 feet tall | Growzone 7-11 |