Red Crape Myrtle Trees
Lagerstroemia indica 'Whit IV' Red Rocket
Red Rocket Crape Myrtle is one of the best of the Red Crape Myrtles. Its a strong grower which is generally unaffected by drought or high temperatues. The leaves stay clean throuought the growing season and the fall color is an added bonus. ruby Red Flowers infrom mid-summer to fall.
|1 Gallon Pot||$24.95|
|3 Gallon Pot||$59.95|
|Espoma Bio-Tone Plus Starter Plus||$16.95|
|15" Tree Staking kit by DeWitt||$16.95|
|Treegator Watering Bag||$27.95|
California Residents: This product can not be shipped to California at this time. Browse products that can be shipped to California here.
|Mature Height:||15 to 20 feet|
|Mature Width:||15 feet|
|Classification:||Tree Form Large|
|Habit:||Deciduous, densely branched, multi-stemmed habit.|
|Flower Color:||Ruby Red flowers in mid to late summer through the first frost.|
|Foliage:||new growth emerges a rich glossy green, changing to a equally enjoyable ruby red in the fall.|
|Soil Condition:||Any well drained soil|
|Uses:||Extremely attractive when used as a focal point in the mixed border, mass planting, or a specimen planting .|
|Water Requirements:||Once established, minimal watering is needed|
Red Crape Myrtle Trees for Sale Online
Red Crape Myrtle has clusters of ruby red, crepe-papery flowers that nearly cover this multi-stemmed tree all summer long. The dark green foliage turns rich bronze-red in fall for great cool-season interest. Red Rocket Crape Myrtle is fast-growing and sure to impress.
- Fantastic multi-stemmed street tree or in mass plantings for a border.
- It has an attractive bark along with its beautiful ruby-red flowers.
- Improved pest and disease resistance.
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Easy to grow Red Crape Myrtle
The Crape Myrtle was introduced to the US over 150 years ago from China, Japan and Southeast Asia. In 1998 Dr. Carl Whitcomb developed a series of crape myrtles which brought us the Crape Myrtle Red Rocket, which is a prolific producer of long lasting clusters of Ruby red flowers. Each cluster within the Red Crape Myrtle produces hundreds of ruby red flowers and each cluster can range from 8” to 16” long. The Crape Myrtle Red Rocket has a very broad and upright growing habit with small alternate leaves that are rounded at the base and are 1” to 2” long. Red Crape Myrtle has leaves that are dark green in the spring, bright green in the summer and in the fall they turn a vibrant orange-red. Each summer the Red Crape Myrtle exfoliates its gray-brown colored bark in thin strips to expose a smooth and light brown colored bark. The Red Rocket Crape Myrtle is adaptable to a wide range of soil types, very drought tolerant and has a good resistance to powdery mildew. Although crape myrtles are a staple in the Southeast United States, plants such as Red Rocket Crape Myrtle are becoming increasingly common in the Northern areas such as St. Louis, Cincinnati, Philadelphia, and on Long Island. The eye-catching trees continue to enhance landscapes allowing gardeners everywhere to relish in their pure beauty. Red Rocket Crape Myrtle is a very fast grower as the name suggests. If you are looking for a fast growing tree that makes a huge impact, this is the tree for you. Crape myrtle Red Rocket has flowers that give way to round seed capsules which often persist well into winter.
We suggest when planting your newly purchased Red Crape Myrtle plants that you dig a hole twice as wide as the root system but not deeper. Depending on the quality of your existing soil you may need to add a locally sourced compost or topsoil to the back-fill soil. We do not recommend using straight topsoil or compost as a back-fill soil because more times than not these products will retain entirely to much moisture and will cause the root system to rot. Adding compost or topsoil will help the young feeder roots to spread through the loose, nutrient rich soil, much easier than if you used solely the existing soil which more times than not will be hard and compacted. The most common cause of plant death after transplanting is planting the new plant to deep. That is why we do not recommend planting in a hole any deeper than the soil line of the plant in the pot. A good rule is that you should still be able to see the soil the plant was grown in after back-filling the hole.