How to Plant Arborvitae Trees
Published On: Aug 7, 2020
Updated On: Aug 10, 2026
Share:
Few evergreens can change a landscape as quickly or as dramatically as a well-planted row of arborvitae trees. Whether you're planting arborvitae for privacy, creating a windbreak, screening a neighboring property, or simply adding year-round structure to the landscape, getting the planting right from the beginning makes all the difference.
Arborvitae (Thuja) are popular evergreen trees because they are adaptable, relatively easy to grow, and available in an incredible range of sizes. Narrow varieties can squeeze into a small suburban yard, while larger arborvitae such as Thuja Green Giant can eventually create a towering evergreen screen.
But here's something I've learned after years around plants: arborvitae are easy to grow only after you put them in the right place and get them established. Plant one too deeply, put it in poorly drained soil, crowd the trees together without thinking about mature size, or let the root ball dry out during the first summer, and even a tough arborvitae can struggle.
Let's get them planted correctly the first time.
| In this Article | |||
|---|---|---|---|
Arborvitae Planting Quick Guide
Before we get into the details, these are the fundamentals I want you to remember when planting arborvitae trees:
- Sun: Full sun is best; most arborvitae perform well with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight.
- Soil: Moist, fertile, well-drained soil is ideal.
- Planting depth: Never bury the root flare. The top of the root ball should generally sit level with or slightly above the surrounding grade.
- Planting hole: At least twice as wide as the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball.
- Water: Water deeply immediately after planting and monitor soil moisture closely throughout establishment.
- Mulch: Apply about 2 to 3 inches over the root zone, but keep mulch away from the trunk.
- Spacing: Depends heavily on the arborvitae variety and whether you're planting individual specimens or a privacy hedge.
Those few decisions account for a remarkable amount of your long-term success.
When Is the Best Time to Plant Arborvitae Trees?
Spring and fall are excellent times to plant arborvitae trees because cooler temperatures reduce stress while the roots begin establishing. Container-grown arborvitae can generally be planted whenever the soil is workable, but planting during extreme summer heat requires much closer attention to watering.
Fall is one of my favorite times for planting arborvitae. The air temperatures begin cooling while the soil remains relatively warm, giving roots an opportunity to establish before winter. Just don't assume cooler weather means the plant no longer needs water. Continue checking soil moisture and watering when necessary until the ground freezes.
Early spring is equally good. Planting before the heat of summer gives your arborvitae time to begin developing roots before temperatures climb.
Can you plant arborvitae in summer? Absolutely. We plant trees all through the growing season. You simply have less margin for error. A newly planted arborvitae sitting in a sunny landscape during a 90-degree stretch can dry much faster than one planted in October.
Where Should You Plant Arborvitae?
Before digging anything, look up.
Then look around.
That sounds overly simple, but one of the most common landscape mistakes is choosing a location based on what a tree looks like today rather than what it will become ten or twenty years from now.
Check the arborvitae's mature height and width before deciding where to plant it. Don't put a potentially 40- or 50-foot evergreen beneath overhead utilities. Give the tree enough distance from buildings, sidewalks, driveways, fences, and neighboring properties to accommodate its mature width.
This becomes especially important when you're planting arborvitae for privacy. It is tempting to hug the property line to save yard space, but remember that half of the mature tree eventually wants to grow beyond its center point. Leave yourself room whenever possible.
And before digging a long row of planting holes, always locate underground utilities.
How Much Sun Do Arborvitae Need?
Most arborvitae grow best in full sun, with approximately six or more hours of direct sunlight each day.
They can tolerate some partial shade, but there's a tradeoff. As light decreases, growth may become thinner and less dense. That's especially important when your goal is a solid arborvitae privacy screen. Dense evergreen foliage is what creates the wall, and good sunlight helps produce that density.
A little afternoon shade can be beneficial in especially hot climates, but I would avoid planting a privacy row in deep shade and expecting the same results you'd get in full sun.
What Is the Best Soil for Arborvitae?
Arborvitae prefer consistently moist but well-drained soil. They can adapt to many soil types, including heavier soils, provided excess water can drain away from the root system.
The words "well-drained" matter.
Arborvitae appreciate moisture, but they don't want their roots sitting in constantly saturated soil. If water routinely stands in your proposed planting area after a rainstorm, correct the drainage issue before planting.
Here's another place where I would change some old planting advice: don't automatically fill the planting hole with a rich 50/50 blend of imported topsoil and existing soil. If your native soil is reasonably suitable, backfill primarily with the soil you removed from the hole. You want the new roots to move outward into the surrounding landscape rather than remain concentrated in a pocket of highly amended soil.
If the entire planting area has truly poor soil, improve the broader bed rather than creating one small "perfect" hole.
How to Plant Arborvitae Trees Step by Step
Now we're ready to plant.
1. Water Your Arborvitae Before Planting
Start with a hydrated root ball. Water the arborvitae thoroughly while it's still in its nursery container before planting.
If your arborvitae arrived by shipment, carefully unpack it, inspect the tree, water the root ball thoroughly if needed, and allow the tree a little time to recover from its trip before planting. Don't allow the container to dry out while you're preparing the site.
2. Measure Your Spacing Before Digging
If you're planting more than one arborvitae, lay out the entire row first.
Measure from the center of one tree to the center of the next—this is called spacing "on center." Mark every planting location and step back to look at the line before digging.
Trust me on this one. Moving a marking flag takes five seconds. Moving a planted arborvitae takes considerably longer.
3. Dig a Wide Hole, Not a Deep Hole
Dig the planting hole at least twice as wide as the arborvitae root ball but no deeper than the root system.
Wide is good. Deep is not.
Loosening the surrounding soil gives developing roots an easier path into the landscape. Digging too deeply, on the other hand, allows the root ball to settle and can eventually bury the base of the trunk.
4. Find the Root Flare
Before placing the arborvitae into the hole, identify where the trunk widens and the upper roots begin. That's the root flare.
Sometimes nursery soil covers this area, so you may need to gently remove a little soil from the top of the root ball to find it.
The root flare should remain visible at or slightly above the finished soil grade. One of the easiest ways to slowly kill a tree is to plant it too deeply.
5. Inspect and Loosen the Roots
Remove a container-grown arborvitae from its pot and inspect the outside of the root ball. If roots are circling tightly around the pot, loosen or correct them before planting so they are encouraged to grow outward.
For balled-and-burlapped trees, remove twine and as much burlap, wire, or other root-ball material as practical once the tree is positioned securely in the hole. Most importantly, nothing should remain wrapped tightly around the trunk.
6. Position the Arborvitae
Set the tree into the hole and check it from several directions.
Make sure it's straight, but more importantly, confirm that the root flare hasn't ended up below grade.
Take your time here. Once you've backfilled and watered everything, correcting the height becomes a much bigger job.
7. Backfill With Soil
Backfill around the root ball primarily using the soil you removed from the planting hole. Work the soil gently around the root ball without packing it excessively.
Water during or immediately after backfilling to settle the soil naturally and eliminate large air pockets.
Avoid stomping heavily around the tree. Compacted soil doesn't make a tree more secure; it makes it harder for roots to get the water and oxygen they need.
8. Water Thoroughly
Immediately after planting, soak the entire root ball and surrounding planting area thoroughly.
A quick spray across the surface isn't enough. The objective is to wet the root ball from top to bottom and encourage moisture to move into the surrounding soil.
9. Mulch the Root Zone
Apply approximately 2 to 3 inches of shredded hardwood mulch, pine fines, or another suitable organic mulch over the root zone.
Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk.
You want a mulch doughnut, not a mulch volcano.
Mulch helps conserve moisture, moderate soil temperatures, and reduce competition from weeds and turf—all things that help a newly planted arborvitae establish faster.
How Far Apart Should You Plant Arborvitae?
This is one of the most important questions in the entire guide because there is no universal "arborvitae spacing."
A Green Giant Arborvitae and an Emerald Green Arborvitae are very different trees. Spacing has to account for the variety's mature width and what you're trying to accomplish.
For a privacy hedge, the trees are intentionally planted close enough for their foliage to eventually overlap. For individual specimens, you'll generally provide considerably more room so each tree can develop its natural form.
Here are useful starting points for several popular arborvitae:
| Arborvitae | Approx. Mature Width | Privacy Screen Spacing |
|---|---|---|
| Emerald Green Arborvitae | 3–4 ft. | 2–3 ft. on center for a tight hedge |
| American Pillar Arborvitae | 3–4 ft. | 3–4 ft. on center |
| DeGroot's Spire Arborvitae | 4–5 ft. | 3–5 ft. on center |
| Thuja Nigra Arborvitae | 6–10 ft. | 5–8 ft. on center |
| Thuja Green Giant Arborvitae | 12–18 ft. | 5–6 ft. on center for a solid privacy hedge |
Spacing should always be adjusted for the particular cultivar, site conditions, and desired finished appearance.
Should You Plant Arborvitae Closer Together for Faster Privacy?
You can—within reason.
Closer spacing allows neighboring trees to touch sooner, which can shorten the time it takes to create a solid privacy screen. That is a perfectly legitimate landscape design strategy.
But closer isn't endlessly better.
Packing arborvitae too tightly increases competition for light, water, and root space. It can also make maintaining individual trees more difficult later. The goal is enough overlap to create privacy without treating your trees like fence boards.
This is why I prefer thinking about the finished hedge before deciding the spacing. Are you trying to create a formal green wall as quickly as possible, or do you want to see the individual pyramidal shape of each tree? Those are two different planting plans.
How to Plant a Row of Arborvitae for Privacy
If you're planting an arborvitae privacy screen, don't start by digging the first hole.
First determine the total length of the planting area, choose your arborvitae variety, determine the appropriate on-center spacing, and calculate how many trees you'll need. Mark the first and last tree, run a string between them, and then mark every planting position.
That simple step can turn a crooked collection of evergreens into a professional-looking privacy hedge.
For very large screening areas, you can also consider a staggered double row. Instead of lining the trees up directly behind one another, offset the second row so each tree sits behind a gap in the first. A staggered arborvitae screen creates additional depth and can provide excellent coverage, but it requires substantially more growing room.
How Often Should You Water Newly Planted Arborvitae?
Watering is probably the single most important part of arborvitae establishment.
After planting, keep the root ball and surrounding soil consistently moist without keeping them saturated. There isn't one watering schedule that works everywhere because clay soil, sandy soil, rainfall, temperature, wind, tree size, and season all affect how quickly the root zone dries.
During the first weeks after planting, check moisture frequently. If the soil several inches below the surface is beginning to dry, water deeply.
As the arborvitae establishes, you can usually water less frequently but more deeply. Continue monitoring your trees throughout the first growing season and during extended dry periods in subsequent seasons.
A soaker hose or drip irrigation system is especially useful when establishing a long arborvitae hedge because it delivers water slowly to the root zone rather than simply wetting the foliage and soil surface.
And don't forget fall watering. Evergreens continue losing moisture through their foliage during winter. An arborvitae that enters winter drought-stressed is more vulnerable to winter burn.
Should You Fertilize Arborvitae When Planting?
I don't believe in feeding a newly planted tree simply because you've planted it.
Good root development, proper planting depth, sufficient sunlight, healthy soil, mulch, and consistent water are more important during establishment than pushing new top growth with fertilizer.
If your soil has a nutrient deficiency, address it based on a soil test. Once the arborvitae is established, a slow-release fertilizer can be used when additional nutrition is actually needed.
Remember: more fertilizer does not automatically mean faster privacy.
Healthy roots come first.
Should You Stake Newly Planted Arborvitae?
Most smaller arborvitae do not need staking if they are planted correctly.
Larger, top-heavy trees or arborvitae planted in particularly windy or exposed locations may benefit from temporary support. Stakes should stabilize the tree while still allowing some natural movement.
If you stake your arborvitae, don't forget about it. Remove the support system after the tree has become established—generally within the first year—so ties don't eventually damage the trunk.
Common Arborvitae Planting Mistakes to Avoid
Most arborvitae failures aren't mysterious. They usually trace back to a handful of basic mistakes.
- Planting the root ball too deeply.
- Choosing a site with poor drainage or standing water.
- Allowing the root ball to dry out after planting.
- Watering only the soil surface instead of soaking the root zone.
- Overwatering already-saturated soil.
- Piling mulch against the trunk.
- Choosing spacing without considering mature width.
- Planting a large-growing variety in a space that's too small.
- Automatically over-amending the planting hole.
- Fertilizing heavily before the root system is established.
- Cutting mature arborvitae back into old, bare wood.
Avoid those problems and you've already stacked the odds heavily in your favor.
Frequently Asked Questions About Planting Arborvitae
How deep should I plant an arborvitae?
Plant arborvitae so the root flare is at or slightly above the surrounding soil level. The planting hole should generally be no deeper than the root ball itself. Arborvitae planted too deeply can suffer from poor root-zone oxygen, stem problems, and long-term decline.
How far apart should arborvitae be planted for privacy?
Spacing depends on the variety. Emerald Green Arborvitae can be planted approximately 2 to 3 feet apart for a tight hedge, while larger Green Giant Arborvitae are commonly spaced about 5 to 6 feet apart on center for a solid privacy screen. Always check the mature width of your particular cultivar before planting.
How far should arborvitae be planted from a fence?
Base the distance on the tree's mature width rather than its size at planting. Ideally, give the arborvitae enough room that most of the mature tree remains on your side of the fence and you can still access the hedge for maintenance. Narrow varieties such as Emerald Green or American Pillar require considerably less room than Green Giant Arborvitae.
Can arborvitae grow in clay soil?
Arborvitae can grow in clay soils as long as the planting site drains adequately. Heavy clay that remains saturated is a problem. If water stands for long periods after rain, address the drainage before planting rather than simply filling the planting hole with better soil.
How long does it take arborvitae to establish?
Initial establishment begins immediately, but developing a root system that extends well into the surrounding soil takes much longer than a few weeks. Treat arborvitae as newly planted throughout at least the first growing season and continue paying close attention to water during dry weather for the following seasons.
Why are my newly planted arborvitae turning brown?
Browning after planting can result from several causes, including a root ball that became too dry, excessive water and poor drainage, transplant stress, improper planting depth, winter burn, or root problems. Before reaching for fertilizer, check soil moisture and planting depth. Those two things tell you a lot.
Can I plant arborvitae in the fall?
Yes. Fall is an excellent time to plant arborvitae as long as the soil is workable and you continue watering when needed until the ground freezes. Cooler air temperatures combined with relatively warm soil can create very good conditions for root establishment.
Choosing the Right Arborvitae for Your Landscape
One of the reasons arborvitae remain such dependable landscape plants is that there isn't just one arborvitae.
For narrow suburban privacy, Emerald Green Arborvitae remains a classic. If you need a tall, exceptionally narrow screen with faster growth, American Pillar Arborvitae deserves consideration. DeGroot's Spire Arborvitae provides a narrow evergreen structure with a distinctive textured form, while Thuja Nigra Arborvitae develops into a larger, dark-green screen.
And when you have the space and want serious height and faster privacy, it's hard to ignore Thuja Green Giant Arborvitae. A mature Green Giant is an entirely different landscape plant from Emerald Green, and that's exactly why choosing the variety before calculating your spacing matters.
Homeowners can compare these and other varieties in the Arborvitae Trees collection before laying out a privacy hedge.
Woodie's Take: Plant for the Tree You're Going to Have
When I see a row of arborvitae struggling, I can usually trace the problem back to something that happened on planting day. They were planted too deep. They were put too close together. The soil stayed wet. Or everybody watered faithfully for two weeks and then assumed the job was finished.
Planting arborvitae isn't complicated, but there are no shortcuts around the fundamentals. Give the roots good soil and good drainage. Keep the root flare where it belongs. Give each variety the room it actually needs. And, above all, pay attention to water while those roots move out into the surrounding soil.
Do those things right and then let the trees do what arborvitae do so well—grow into a beautiful, dense evergreen part of your landscape that can provide privacy, structure, and four-season color for decades.