Arborvitae Shrub Care Guide

By Richard "Woodie" Buller, GGD co-founder with 35+ years in horticulture

Published On: Mar 14, 2023
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A garden needs a few plants that keep doing their job when the flowers take a break. Arborvitae shrubs are particularly good at that. Their evergreen foliage, soft texture, and naturally compact forms help a planting feel complete year-round.

Compact globe arborvitae shrubs in a mulched foundation bed

While many gardeners associate arborvitae with tall privacy screens, smaller varieties serve a different purpose. Globe and dwarf arborvitae can frame a walkway, anchor a foundation bed, or be repeated along a border without towering over the rest of the garden.

The secret to growing them well starts with choosing the right size for the space. After that, good planting depth, steady moisture, and protection from deer make a bigger difference than frequent pruning or heavy feeding.

"Give a shrub room to be itself, and you'll spend a lot less time trying to keep it in bounds." — Woodie

In this Article
What Are Arborvitae Shrubs? How to Plant Arborvitae Shrubs How to Prune Arborvitae Shrubs Using Arborvitae Shrubs in the Landscape Frequently Asked Questions	Choosing the Best Arborvitae Shrub for Your Garden How Far Apart Should Arborvitae Shrubs Be Planted? Are Arborvitae Shrubs Deer Resistant? A Few Words From Woodie	Where Do Arborvitae Shrubs Grow Best? Watering Arborvitae Shrubs Why Is My Arborvitae Turning Brown? Final Thoughts	When to Plant Arborvitae Shrubs Fertilizing Arborvitae Shrubs Protecting Arborvitae Shrubs in Winter Recommended Internal Links

What Are Arborvitae Shrubs?

Arborvitae are evergreen conifers in the genus Thuja. Many familiar compact landscape varieties are selections of Thuja occidentalis, also known as eastern arborvitae or northern white cedar.

Their foliage forms overlapping sprays that give the plants a fine, layered texture. Depending on the variety, that foliage may be rich green, yellow-green, or golden, with some selections developing coppery tones in cold weather.

Compact arborvitae shrubs are useful where the garden needs lasting shape at a smaller scale. Some remain low and rounded, while others become broader or more upright as they age.

The word "dwarf" describes growth relative to a larger plant. It does not mean the shrub stops growing once it reaches the dimensions printed on its label. Give even a slow-growing selection enough room for its long-term development.

Choosing the Best Arborvitae Shrub for Your Garden

Start with the space you have available, then consider foliage color and texture. A small globe beside a walkway fills a different role than a broader shrub anchoring a mixed border.

Variety	Approximate landscape size, height × width	Foliage and form	Useful planting locations
Danica Globe Arborvitae	2–2½ × 2–2½ feet	Dense green foliage; small, rounded habit	Smaller foundation beds, walkway accents, and low borders
Little Giant Arborvitae	3–4 × 3–4 feet	Rich green foliage; full globe shape	Repeated foundation plantings, low hedges, mixed borders
Hetz Midget Globe Arborvitae	3–4 × 3–5 feet	Dense green sprays; rounded, spreading form	Foundation beds, shrub groupings, evergreen accents
Rheingold Arborvitae	About 3–5 × 3–5 feet in roughly 10 years	Golden foliage with coppery winter color; becomes more upright with age	Color accents, mixed borders, winter-interest gardens

Sizes are planning estimates. Climate, growing conditions, and age affect the eventual dimensions.

Danica Globe Arborvitae

Danica is a useful choice when you want a small evergreen mound without committing to a larger foundation shrub. Its compact proportions work especially well near the front of a bed, where its rounded shape remains visible.

Plant it where neighboring plants will leave the foliage exposed to light. A small evergreen can disappear quickly beneath vigorous perennials or an overhanging shrub.

Little Giant Arborvitae

Little Giant creates a fuller globe with enough presence to hold its own in a mixed planting. Repeating it through a border can bring order to a garden with many different flower colors and textures.

Its naturally rounded habit reduces the need for shaping. Allow room for its width so that maintaining the planting does not become a yearly exercise in cutting it back.

Hetz Midget Globe Arborvitae

Hetz Midget offers dense evergreen foliage in a rounded form that can become wider than it is tall. That makes it useful for softening the front of a house or filling a substantial space within a shrub border.

Pay particular attention to the width when placing it beside steps or a walkway. A young plant may look comfortably small while still needing several feet of growing room.

Rheingold Arborvitae

Rheingold adds a different kind of interest. Its golden foliage brings warmth to a planting, and cooler weather encourages coppery tones.

Young plants have a rounded appearance, but older specimens can become more conical. Choose it for its changing color and developing character rather than expecting it to remain a perfect little ball indefinitely.

Where Do Arborvitae Shrubs Grow Best?

Sunlight

Most compact arborvitae grow best in full sun to partial shade. A bright location generally encourages fuller growth, and adequate light helps golden varieties show their color.

Deep shade often produces thinner foliage and a looser shape. Avoid placing a shrub where a growing tree or neighboring hedge will eventually block most of its light.

In warmer areas, a site with morning sun and some afternoon shade may help reduce heat stress, provided the plant still receives enough light.

Soil and Drainage

Arborvitae appreciate soil that holds moisture while allowing excess water to drain. They should not dry out repeatedly, but roots also need air.

A bed that remains saturated after rain deserves attention before planting. Adding gravel to the bottom of a planting hole will not solve a drainage problem. Improve the broader site or choose another location.

Arborvitae do not automatically need an acidifying fertilizer. Test the soil before changing its pH or adding nutrients.

Climate and Exposure

Check the hardiness range of the specific variety. The selections in this guide include options suited to cold climates, but winter hardiness alone does not guarantee success in every location.

Drying winds, reflected heat, summer drought, and deicing salt can all create problems. A sheltered bed with dependable access to water often gives a compact evergreen a better start than a hot, exposed strip beside pavement.

When to Plant Arborvitae Shrubs

Spring and early fall are generally good planting seasons because moderate temperatures make moisture easier to manage.

In colder climates, plant early enough in fall for roots to begin establishing before the ground freezes. Spring is often the easier choice on particularly exposed sites.

Container-grown shrubs can also be planted during other workable periods, but summer planting requires closer attention to moisture. Avoid planting into frozen, saturated, or severely dry soil.

How to Plant Arborvitae Shrubs

Prepare the Site

Measure the space using the shrub's expected width. Check its distance from siding, steps, windows, and neighboring plants.

Before removing the container, water the root ball if it is dry. A dry nursery root ball can be difficult to wet thoroughly after planting.

Dig a Wide, Shallow Hole

Dig a hole at least twice as wide as the root ball. Measure the planting depth from the uppermost substantial roots to the bottom of the root ball, rather than assuming the potting soil surface marks the correct level.

Keep firm soil beneath the plant so it will not settle too deeply.

Inspect the Roots

Slide the shrub out of its container and inspect the root system. Loosen circling roots and correct tightly bound roots as needed with clean tools.

Do not pull the shrub out by its branches or bury a tangled root system without examining it.

Set the Plant at the Correct Depth

Position the uppermost roots at or slightly above the surrounding grade. Keep the base of the stems exposed.

Backfill primarily with the soil removed from the hole. If the site needs substantial improvement, address the broader planting area instead of creating a small pocket of heavily amended soil.

Water and Mulch

Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots. Apply approximately 2–3 inches of organic mulch over the surrounding soil, keeping it several inches away from the stems.

Mulch should form a broad, shallow layer rather than a mound against the plant.

How Far Apart Should Arborvitae Shrubs Be Planted?

Base the spacing on the variety's mature width and the appearance you want.

For separate globe shapes, leave enough space to see each plant's outline. For a connected border, position plants so their expected mature edges meet without requiring severe pruning.

For example, shrubs expected to grow 4 feet wide will approximately meet when planted 4 feet on-center. Greater spacing preserves separation between them.

Along a building, allow at least half the expected mature width between the plant's center and the wall, plus extra clearance for maintenance and airflow. Consider access to faucets, meters, and other fixtures as well.

Watering Arborvitae Shrubs

Watering deserves the most attention while roots are establishing.

Check both the original root ball and the nearby soil. They can dry at different rates, particularly when the nursery growing medium differs from the garden soil.

Check frequently during the first few weeks and during hot or windy weather. Water slowly when the root zone begins to dry, allowing moisture to penetrate the root ball and surrounding soil.

As roots spread, expand the area you water. A drip system or soaker hose can help, but inspect the soil to confirm that water is reaching every plant.

Established arborvitae generally need less frequent attention, although extended drought can still damage them. Continue checking moisture through dry autumn weather while the ground remains unfrozen.

"Before you reach for fertilizer, check the soil. A thirsty root ball and a waterlogged one can both leave you looking at brown foliage." — Woodie

Fertilizing Arborvitae Shrubs

Healthy arborvitae do not necessarily need fertilizer every year.

Use a soil test, growth observations, and the condition of the planting to decide whether feeding is necessary. Slow growth may be normal for a compact variety, especially while it establishes.

If fertilizer is warranted, choose a product appropriate to the identified need and follow its label. Early spring is a practical time for application in many climates.

Avoid encouraging tender growth late in the growing season. Fertilizer also cannot correct poor drainage, deep planting, deer damage, or dead foliage.

How to Prune Arborvitae Shrubs

Most globe arborvitae need little pruning when they have adequate space.

Remove broken or dead branches as needed. For light shaping, trim conservatively in spring or early summer and retain foliage on the remaining branches.

Avoid cutting deeply into bare interior wood. Recovery from severe pruning is unreliable and can leave gaps for years.

Follow the shrub's natural outline instead of repeatedly shearing it into a tight shell. If a plant requires major size reduction every season, its location may no longer suit it.

Are Arborvitae Shrubs Deer Resistant?

Compact eastern arborvitae should be considered vulnerable to deer browsing.

Their low growth puts much of the foliage within easy reach. Repeated feeding can spoil a rounded outline and expose bare branches that may recover poorly.

Where deer visit regularly, include protection in the planting plan. Properly installed fencing or a sturdy enclosure around a small group provides a physical barrier. Leave room between the barrier and the foliage so deer cannot simply reach through it.

Repellents may help, but performance varies, and applications must follow the product label. Do not assume shrubs beside a porch or front door are safe from browsing.

Why Is My Arborvitae Turning Brown?

Browning is a symptom with several possible causes. Look at where the change begins, how quickly it develops, and what has happened around the plant.

What you notice	Possible explanation	What to check
Older foliage browns inside while outer tips remain healthy	Normal seasonal shedding	Whether the change is limited to older interior growth
Rheingold develops coppery winter color	Expected seasonal coloration	Whether the foliage remains intact and the change matches its usual pattern
Outer foliage browns after winter	Winter injury or drying	Wind exposure, moisture history, salt, and spring bud activity
Decline develops after planting	Root ball drying, excess moisture, or planting problems	Moisture inside the root ball, drainage, and planting depth
Lower foliage disappears or looks torn	Animal browsing	Feeding damage and animal activity
Foliage becomes dull, stippled, or bronzed	Possible mite feeding	Close inspection and confirmation of an active infestation
Foliage disappears around hanging, debris-covered bags	Possible bagworms	Bags attached to branches and feeding caterpillars

Do not apply the same treatment to every brown shrub. Watering more can worsen a drainage problem, and fertilizer will not repair foliage removed by deer.

Normal Interior Shedding

Evergreen foliage does not last forever. Older foliage inside an arborvitae may turn brown and drop while younger growth remains healthy.

A limited seasonal change inside the plant is different from progressive browning across the outer canopy.

Bagworms and Spider Mites

Bagworms build protective bags from silk and plant material. Remove accessible bags before eggs hatch, taking care not to damage branches. If treatment is needed, timing against young caterpillars matters; local guidance can help identify the right window.

Spider mites can cause stippling and bronzing. Confirm the pest before treating, since watering problems and winter injury can look similar from a distance.

Protecting Arborvitae Shrubs in Winter

Good winter care begins during the growing season. Maintain suitable moisture, avoid late growth stimulation, and keep mulch away from the stems.

On exposed sites, a freestanding burlap screen can reduce drying wind and winter sun. Leave space around the foliage and allow air movement.

Keep deicing salt and salt-laden snow away from the planting. Avoid piling shoveled snow onto compact shrubs or attempting to break ice from frozen branches.

When winter browning occurs, allow spring growth to reveal the extent of the injury before making major pruning decisions. Some damaged foliage may conceal living buds, while dead branches will need to be removed.

Using Arborvitae Shrubs in the Landscape

Compact arborvitae are especially effective when planted in multiples. A few rounded shrubs can connect separate parts of a foundation planting or provide continuity through a colorful border.

Use green varieties for a quiet backdrop. Place golden Rheingold where its color can stand out against darker foliage or complement nearby flowers.

Give each plant a clear role. Smaller globes belong where their proportions remain visible; broader selections need enough depth to develop without spilling across a path.

If your goal is a tall privacy screen, choose an upright arborvitae suited to that purpose. Compact globe shrubs are better used for low structure, accents, and borders.

A Few Words From Woodie

"The best evergreen for your garden is the one that fits the space when it's grown. Start there, keep an eye on the roots, and let the plant do what it does naturally." — Woodie

Arborvitae shrubs reward a little planning. Choose the shape you want, provide suitable light and moisture, and protect the foliage where deer are active.

Their naturally tidy habits make them useful plants for gardeners who want lasting structure without a great deal of pruning.

Final Thoughts

Arborvitae shrubs bring dependable form, texture, and seasonal color to gardens of many sizes. Danica offers a smaller globe, Little Giant and Hetz Midget provide fuller green shapes, and Rheingold adds golden foliage with winter warmth.

Match the variety to the space, plant at the correct depth, and check moisture while roots establish. Those basic decisions give the shrub its best chance to become a lasting part of the garden.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Do arborvitae shrubs need full sun?

Most compact arborvitae grow best in full sun to partial shade. Bright light encourages dense growth, while deep shade can produce thin foliage and a loose shape.

2. How big do dwarf arborvitae shrubs get?

Size depends on the variety. Danica commonly reaches about 2–2½ feet tall and wide, while larger compact selections need more room. Dwarf describes relative growth and size, not a permanent stopping point.

3. How far apart should arborvitae shrubs be planted?

Use the variety's expected mature width to determine spacing. Shrubs expected to grow 4 feet wide will be spaced approximately 4 feet on-center; wider spacing keeps their outlines separate.

4. How often should newly planted arborvitae be watered?

Check the root ball and nearby soil frequently after planting. Water slowly when the root zone begins to dry, adjusting for rainfall, temperature, drainage, and plant size.

5. Can arborvitae shrubs be cut back hard?

Avoid severe pruning into bare interior wood. Recovery is unreliable and may leave lasting gaps. Light shaping that retains foliage is the better approach.

6. Are arborvitae shrubs deer resistant?

Compact eastern arborvitae are vulnerable to deer browsing. Where deer are common, plan for protection with an appropriate physical barrier and other locally suitable measures.

7. Why is my arborvitae shrub turning brown?

Possible causes include normal interior shedding, winter injury, drought, excess moisture, planting problems, and pests. Check the pattern of damage and root-zone conditions before choosing a treatment.

8. When is the best time to plant arborvitae shrubs?

Spring and early fall are generally good planting seasons. In colder climates, allow time for roots to begin establishing before the ground freezes, and avoid frozen or saturated soil.

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