The Ultimate Guide to Growing Arborvitae Trees
By Richard "Woodie" Buller, GGD co-founder with 35+ years in horticulture
Published On: Nov 3, 2026
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Few plants can transform a property as quickly as a well-planned row of arborvitae trees. Their dense evergreen foliage provides privacy, softens property lines, blocks unwanted views, filters wind, reduces visual noise, and gives the landscape structure through every season.
Botanically known as Thuja, arborvitae are available in an extraordinary range of sizes and shapes. Some varieties grow into broad, towering privacy trees, while others form narrow columns that fit comfortably into smaller suburban yards. Compact arborvitae can even be used around foundations, along walkways, or as evergreen accents in mixed borders.
Arborvitae are commonly described as easy to grow, but their long-term success depends on several decisions made at the beginning. The variety must fit the available space. The soil must drain. The root ball must not be buried. The trees must receive enough sunlight, and they must be watered consistently while their roots establish.
Get those fundamentals right, and arborvitae can provide decades of evergreen privacy with relatively little maintenance.
| In this Article | |||
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Arborvitae Growing Quick Guide
| Growing Requirement | Arborvitae Care Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Botanical name | Thuja |
| Plant type | Evergreen conifer |
| Sun exposure | Full sun to partial shade; full sun produces the densest growth |
| Soil | Moist, fertile, well-drained soil |
| Water | Consistent during establishment; deep watering during prolonged drought |
| Hardiness | Generally, USDA zones 3 to 9, depending on the variety |
| Growth rate | Slow to fast, depending on the cultivar |
| Foliage habit | Evergreen |
| Ornamental features | Dense evergreen foliage; pyramidal, columnar, or compact form; year-round structure |
| Fertilizer | Usually unnecessary unless growth or a soil test indicates a need |
| Pruning season | Late winter through early summer, depending on the goal |
| Deer resistance | Varies by cultivar; no arborvitae is completely deer-proof |
| Landscape uses | Privacy screens, hedges, windbreaks, property borders, foundations, and evergreen accents |
What Is an Arborvitae Tree?
Arborvitae are evergreen trees and shrubs belonging to the genus Thuja. The name "arborvitae" means "tree of life," a reference to the historical use of the plant's vitamin-rich foliage by Indigenous peoples and early European explorers.
In the landscape, arborvitae are grown primarily for their flattened sprays of evergreen foliage and naturally upright forms. The foliage may be deep green, bright green, blue-green, or golden, depending on the variety.
The two species most commonly represented in American landscapes are American arborvitae, Thuja occidentalis, and western redcedar, Thuja plicata. Green Giant Arborvitae is a hybrid between western redcedar and Japanese arborvitae.
Individual Thuja varieties can look remarkably different from one another. That is why choosing an arborvitae by name alone is not enough. You need to understand its mature height, width, growth rate, hardiness, deer susceptibility, and natural form.
Choosing the Best Arborvitae for Your Landscape
The best arborvitae is the one that naturally fits the space and does the job you need it to.
If you need a tall privacy screen across a large property, a vigorous variety such as Thuja Green Giant Arborvitae may be the right choice. If you have a narrow side yard or limited space between a patio and property line, a slimmer cultivar such as Emerald Green Arborvitae, American Pillar Arborvitae, DeGroot's Spire Arborvitae, or North Pole Arborvitae may be more appropriate.
Compact varieties such as Emerald Petite Arborvitae provide evergreen structure without becoming full-sized privacy trees. Gold-foliaged selections such as Forever Goldy Arborvitae add both color and structure.
Do not choose only by growth rate. A fast-growing tree that becomes far too wide for the site creates years of pruning problems. A somewhat slower tree that fits the space naturally will usually produce a better long-term landscape.
Popular Arborvitae Varieties and Their Best Uses
| Arborvitae Variety | Growth Habit | Best Landscape Use |
|---|---|---|
| Thuja Green Giant Arborvitae | Large, fast-growing pyramidal tree | Tall privacy screens, large properties, and windbreaks |
| Emerald Green Arborvitae | Narrow, formal column | Smaller yards, tight hedges, patios, and property lines |
| American Pillar Arborvitae | Tall, fast-growing, narrow column | Rapid privacy where planting width is limited |
| Junior Giant Arborvitae | Compact pyramidal privacy tree | Medium-sized screens and smaller alternatives to Green Giant |
| Thuja Nigra | Broad, dark-green upright form | Cold-hardy screens, hedges, and windbreaks |
| DeGroot's Spire Arborvitae | Narrow, textured column | Tight spaces, accents, and formal evergreen structure |
| North Pole Arborvitae | Very narrow upright form | Side yards, entryways, and restricted planting spaces |
| Forever Goldy Arborvitae | Upright form with golden foliage | Colorful screens, accents, and mixed borders |
| Emerald Petite Arborvitae | Compact evergreen form | Foundations, smaller beds, and low evergreen structure |
| Leprechaun Arborvitae | Compact to medium upright form | Residential hedges, foundations, and evergreen accents |
Always confirm the mature size shown on the individual product page before making your final selection.
How Fast Do Arborvitae Trees Grow?
Arborvitae growth rate depends on the variety, sunlight, soil, moisture, climate, spacing, and overall health.
Green Giant Arborvitae and American Pillar Arborvitae are selected when homeowners want relatively fast privacy. Once established in favorable conditions, they can grow substantially faster than compact or formal cultivars.
Emerald Green Arborvitae grows more moderately. That slower rate helps it maintain a narrow, controlled shape that fits smaller properties and formal hedges.
DeGroot's Spire, North Pole, and other narrow forms are valued more for their restricted width and architectural shape than for maximum speed.
Newly planted arborvitae may grow slowly during their first season because much of their energy is going into root establishment. Do not attempt to force rapid top growth with heavy fertilizer. Once the roots begin expanding into the surrounding soil, annual growth usually becomes more noticeable.
When Is the Best Time to Plant Arborvitae?
Spring and fall are generally the best times to plant arborvitae trees. Moderate temperatures reduce moisture stress as the roots begin to establish.
Spring planting gives the tree an entire growing season to develop roots before winter. Fall planting can be equally successful because the soil remains relatively warm even after air temperatures begin to cool.
Container-grown arborvitae can be planted in summer when the soil is workable, but the margin for watering errors narrows significantly. A newly planted evergreen can dry quickly during hot, sunny, or windy weather.
Continue checking soil moisture after fall planting. Cooler temperatures do not eliminate the need for water, and the roots can continue growing until the ground becomes cold or frozen.
Where Should You Plant Arborvitae?
Begin by looking at the mature tree rather than the plant sitting in its nursery container.
Check for overhead utility lines, underground utilities, buildings, fences, driveways, sidewalks, patios, neighboring properties, septic systems, and other trees. Large arborvitae should not be planted beneath utility wires or squeezed into narrow spaces where they will require constant pruning.
When planting along a property line, remember that approximately half of the tree's mature width will extend to either side of its trunk. Leave enough distance that most of the tree remains on your property and you can access the hedge for maintenance.
Avoid locations exposed to deicing salt spray or salt-contaminated runoff. Arborvitae foliage can be damaged by road salt, and salts that accumulate in the soil can injure roots.
If you are planting a long privacy screen, consider whether a single row is the best design. A mixed screen using several compatible evergreen and deciduous species can reduce the likelihood that a single pest, disease, or severe weather event creates a gap across the entire planting.
How Much Sun Do Arborvitae Need?
Most arborvitae grow best with at least six hours of direct sunlight per day.
They can tolerate partial shade, but the tradeoff is usually slower growth and thinner foliage. That matters when the goal is a dense privacy hedge. An arborvitae planted in heavy shade may survive without ever creating the solid green wall you expected.
Uneven sunlight can also cause one side of the tree to grow more densely than the other. Arborvitae planted close to buildings or beneath larger trees may become thin on the shaded side.
In very hot climates, some afternoon protection may be beneficial. However, good light remains essential for dense, balanced growth.
The Best Soil for Arborvitae Trees
Arborvitae prefer moist, fertile soil that drains well. They adapt to several soil textures, including clay, loam, and sandy soil, provided the roots receive both moisture and oxygen.
The phrase well-drained matters. Arborvitae appreciate consistent moisture, but they do not tolerate roots sitting in chronically saturated soil.
If water remains standing in the planting area after rain, correct the drainage problem before planting. Filling one hole with loose topsoil or compost does not fix a poorly drained site and may create a basin that holds water around the root ball.
Improve the broader planting area when necessary, plant slightly high in heavier soil, or select another location. A raised berm can sometimes improve drainage, but the root ball must still be protected from drying.
Arborvitae can grow in clay soil when the clay drains adequately. Compacted clay that remains saturated or hardens like concrete during dry weather creates a far more difficult environment.
How to Plant Arborvitae Trees
Water the arborvitae thoroughly while it is still in its nursery container. A hydrated root ball is less likely to fall apart or dry while the site is being prepared.
If the tree was shipped, unpack it promptly, remove protective material, inspect the foliage and root ball, and water if needed. Allow the plant a short acclimation period in a protected outdoor location before planting, especially if weather conditions are extreme.
Dig a hole at least twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. A wide hole helps roots move into the surrounding soil. A deep hole allows the tree to settle and may bury the trunk flare.
Remove the arborvitae from its container and inspect the root system. Loosen or correct tightly circling roots so they are directed outward.
Locate the root flare, where the trunk widens, and the upper roots begin. Nursery soil sometimes covers this area, so you may need to remove a little soil from the top of the root ball.
Set the tree into the hole with the root flare level with or slightly above the surrounding soil. In heavy soil, planting slightly high is safer than planting too deeply.
Backfill primarily with the soil removed from the hole. Firm the soil gently around the root ball without stomping or compacting it heavily.
Water slowly and thoroughly after planting. Apply approximately two to three inches of organic mulch over the root zone, but keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk.
How Far Apart Should Arborvitae Be Planted?
Arborvitae spacing depends on the cultivar's mature width and whether you are creating a tight hedge, a looser screen, or a row of individual specimens.
| Arborvitae Variety | Approximate Mature Width | Privacy-Screen Spacing |
|---|---|---|
| Emerald Green Arborvitae | 3 to 4 feet | 2 to 3 feet on center for a tight hedge |
| American Pillar Arborvitae | 3 to 4 feet | 3 to 4 feet on center |
| DeGroot's Spire Arborvitae | 4 to 5 feet | 3 to 5 feet on center |
| Thuja Nigra Arborvitae | 6 to 10 feet | 5 to 8 feet on center |
| Thuja Green Giant Arborvitae | 12 to 18 feet | 5 to 6 feet on center for a solid privacy hedge |
These are starting points rather than universal rules. Check the mature width and growth habit listed for the particular tree you are purchasing.
Closer spacing produces overlap and privacy sooner, but planting excessively close increases competition for sunlight, water, nutrients, and root space. Crowded trees can also become difficult to inspect or replace.
Wider spacing allows individual trees to develop their natural pyramidal form, but takes longer to create a continuous screen.
How to Plant an Arborvitae Privacy Screen
Measure the entire length of the proposed screen before purchasing trees. Divide that distance by the desired on-center spacing to estimate how many trees you need.
Mark the first and last locations and run a string between them. Measure every planting point from the center of one tree to the center of the next.
Step back and inspect the layout before digging. Check views from the house, patio, road, driveway, and neighboring properties. A perfectly straight row is useful for a formal hedge, but a gentle curve or staggered arrangement may look more natural on a larger property.
A staggered double row can provide deeper screening. Position the second row so its trees sit behind the gaps in the first. This arrangement requires considerably more width but can create excellent privacy and wind filtering.
Do not plant every tree directly against a fence. Leave enough working space to inspect the back of the hedge, repair the fence, control weeds, and prune when necessary.
How to Water Newly Planted Arborvitae
Watering is the most important part of arborvitae establishment.
Immediately after planting, soak the entire root ball and the surrounding soil. During the first weeks, inspect the soil frequently. Water deeply whenever the upper portion of the root zone begins to dry.
Do not rely on rainfall totals alone. Light rain may wet the soil surface without penetrating the original root ball. Container growing media can also dry differently from the surrounding native soil.
Insert your finger or a narrow trowel several inches into the soil near the root ball. If the soil is beginning to dry, water. If it remains saturated, wait.
The watering schedule will change with temperature, rainfall, wind, sunlight, soil texture, tree size, and season. Sandy soil dries quickly, while heavy clay retains water longer.
A soaker hose or drip line works well for long arborvitae hedges because it delivers water slowly to the root zone. Check the emitters regularly and make sure every tree receives water. The end of a long line may receive less pressure than the beginning.
How Long Do Arborvitae Need Supplemental Water?
Treat arborvitae as newly planted throughout at least their first full growing season. Larger specimens and trees planted on difficult sites may require close monitoring of moisture for several years.
As the root system expands, reduce the frequency of watering but continue watering deeply. This encourages roots to explore a larger volume of soil.
Established arborvitae can tolerate moderate dry periods, but prolonged drought may cause thinning, browning, increased pest susceptibility, and winter injury.
Pay particular attention during late summer and fall. Evergreens continue losing water through their foliage during winter. Arborvitae that enter winter with dry roots are much more vulnerable to winter burn.
Should Arborvitae Be Fertilized?
Healthy arborvitae growing normally in suitable soil may not need fertilizer.
Do not automatically fertilize a newly planted tree. Root establishment, proper planting depth, water, sunlight, and drainage are more important than forcing new top growth.
If an established arborvitae has pale foliage or unusually weak growth, investigate the cause before feeding it. Shade, drought, saturated soil, root damage, competition, planting depth, and pests can all slow growth.
Use a soil test when nutrient availability or soil pH is in question. If fertilizer is justified, apply a slow-release product in early spring according to the label.
Avoid heavy nitrogen applications. Excessive fertilizer can create tender growth, increase water demand, and make the tree more vulnerable to environmental stress.
More fertilizer does not automatically create faster privacy. Healthy roots create healthy growth.
When and How to Prune Arborvitae
Arborvitae require relatively little pruning when the correct variety is planted in the correct space.
Remove dead, broken, or damaged branches whenever they are discovered. Light shaping can be performed in late winter, spring, or after the first flush of growth in early summer.
Make modest cuts within the green foliage. Arborvitae do not reliably regenerate from old, leafless wood. If you cut a branch back beyond all green growth, the resulting bare area may remain visible permanently.
Avoid topping arborvitae. Removing the central leader destroys the tree's natural shape and may produce multiple weak leaders.
If a hedge needs regular shearing, keep the base slightly wider than the top. That allows sunlight to reach the lower foliage and helps prevent the hedge from becoming bare near the ground.
A tree that requires repeated severe pruning is probably too large for its location. Replacing it with a narrower cultivar may ultimately require less work.
Can Brown Arborvitae Grow Back?
Brown foliage will not turn green again. The important question is whether the branch beneath it is still alive.
Gently scratch a small area of bark with a fingernail. Living tissue beneath the bark is usually green. Brown, dry tissue suggests the branch has died.
Wait until spring growth begins before removing winter-damaged foliage. Some branches that look poor in late winter may still produce new growth from living green sections.
A completely bare section of old arborvitae wood is unlikely to fill in directly. Nearby green branches may gradually disguise a small opening, but a large gap can remain visible.
If one tree in a mature hedge dies, replacing it can be difficult because neighboring trees shade the new plant. Correct the original problem—such as drainage, irrigation failure, deer damage, or root competition—before installing a replacement.
Why Arborvitae Trees Turn Brown
Arborvitae browning is a symptom with several possible causes. The location, timing, and pattern of the discoloration help identify the problem.
Drought Stress
Foliage may turn dull green, yellow, bronze, or brown after the roots become too dry. Newly planted trees are especially vulnerable because their roots remain concentrated inside the original root ball.
Overwatering and Poor Drainage
Roots deprived of oxygen cannot properly supply water to the foliage. The tree may yellow, brown, wilt, or decline even though the soil is wet.
Winter Burn
Winter sun and wind pull moisture from evergreen foliage while frozen or dry soil limits the roots' ability to replace it. Damage is often strongest on the south, southwest, or windward side.
Transplant Stress
A newly installed tree may shed some foliage while its root system adjusts. Severe or expanding browning indicates that the root ball, planting depth, drainage, or watering should be examined.
Normal Interior Shedding
Older interior foliage naturally turns yellow or brown and drops, typically in the fall. If the branch tips remain green and healthy, limited interior browning is usually normal.
Root Damage
Construction, trenching, compacted soil, string trimmers, rodents, or root rot can reduce the tree's ability to support its foliage.
Salt Injury
Deicing salt can burn foliage facing a road or driveway. Salt-laden runoff can also damage roots.
Insects or Disease
Bagworms, spider mites, scale insects, leafminers, root rots, and twig blights can all produce browning. Look for bags, webbing, stippling, insects, lesions, or a distinct pattern of branch dieback before treating.
Arborvitae Browning Diagnosis Chart
| Browning Pattern | Likely Cause | What to Check |
|---|---|---|
| The entire newly planted tree browns | Dry root ball, overwatering, deep planting, or root failure | Soil moisture and root-flare position |
| The south or windward side browns after winter | Winter burn | Exposure, fall watering, and frozen-soil conditions |
| Lower branches are stripped or bare | Deer browsing | Tracks, ragged foliage, and browsing height |
| Individual branches carry hanging bags | Bagworms | Small spindle-shaped bags made from foliage |
| Fine stippling or bronzed foliage | Spider mites | Mites, eggs, or webbing on foliage |
| Lower foliage yellows in wet soil | Poor drainage or root rot | Standing water, odor, and root condition |
| Older interior foliage browns in fall | Normal seasonal shedding | Healthy green branch tips |
| Road-facing foliage browns | Salt spray | Nearby treated roads, walks, or driveways |
| Scattered twig tips die | Blight, insects, drought, or physical injury | Lesions, insects, and recent stress |
| One section suddenly turns brown | Broken branch, girdling, root injury, or localized pest damage | Trace the affected branch back toward the trunk |
How to Prevent Winter Burn on Arborvitae
Winter-burn prevention begins before winter.
Water arborvitae deeply during dry fall weather, continuing until the ground freezes. Moist soil provides roots with access to water during mild winter periods.
Maintain two to three inches of mulch over the root zone to moderate soil temperature and reduce moisture loss. Keep the mulch away from the trunk.
Protect recently planted or exposed arborvitae from prevailing winter winds. Install burlap or another breathable wind barrier on the windward side, leaving space between the material and foliage. Wrapping the tree tightly can trap moisture, bend branches, and create additional problems.
Avoid late-season fertilizer and heavy pruning that stimulates tender growth before winter.
Do not rush to prune brown foliage in February or early March. Wait until spring growth begins so you can see which branches remain alive.
How to Protect Arborvitae from Snow and Ice
Tall, narrow, multi-stemmed arborvitae can spread or split beneath heavy snow and ice.
Before winter, loosely support vulnerable trees with soft arborist webbing or breathable plant ties. The goal is to hold the leaders together without binding the foliage tightly.
After a snowfall, gently brush loose snow upward and away from the branches. Brushing downward can increase the bending force.
Do not strike frozen, ice-covered branches. Frozen foliage and stems can snap easily. Allow ice to melt naturally unless a branch poses an immediate safety risk.
If a leader bends but does not break, they may be temporarily tied back into position. A completely broken central leader cannot be reattached reliably and may require structural pruning.
Are Arborvitae Deer Resistant?
Deer resistance varies significantly among arborvitae varieties.
Emerald Green Arborvitae and many cultivars of American arborvitae are highly vulnerable to deer browsing. During winter, deer may remove foliage as high as they can reach, leaving trees green on top and bare below.
Green Giant Arborvitae is generally browsed less heavily than many American arborvitae cultivars, but it should not be considered deer-proof. Hungry deer can feed on almost any evergreen.
Deer-damaged old wood may not produce new foliage. This is why preventing the damage is more dependable than attempting to repair it later.
Physical fencing is the most reliable protection in areas with heavy deer pressure. Repellents can help, but they must be reapplied and rotated according to the label. Protect young trees before browsing begins rather than waiting for damage to appear.
How to Identify and Control Bagworms
Bagworms are among the most destructive arborvitae pests. The caterpillars feed on foliage while carrying spindle-shaped bags covered with pieces of the host plant.
Small populations can be difficult to notice until significant browning appears. Inspect arborvitae regularly, especially trees that were infested in previous years.
From fall through early spring, remove and destroy reachable bags by hand. Each female bag can contain many eggs, so winter removal can greatly reduce the following year's population.
Young bagworms are most vulnerable shortly after hatching, often in late spring or early summer, depending on the region and weather. Products containing Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki or spinosad can be effective against small larvae when applied according to the label. Treatments become less effective as the caterpillars mature and their bags enlarge.
Severely defoliated arborvitae may not recover because the bare wood often cannot produce replacement foliage.
Other Arborvitae Pests and Diseases
Spider Mites
Spider mites feed on foliage and cause fine yellow stippling, bronzing, and eventual browning. They are extremely small and may be detected by tapping foliage over white paper.
Not every spider found in an arborvitae is a pest. Confirm mite activity before treating because beneficial insects help keep populations under control.
Scale Insects
Scale insects attach to stems or foliage and feed on sap. Heavy populations can cause yellowing, reduced growth, branch dieback, and sticky residue when soft scales are involved.
Arborvitae Leafminer
Leafminer larvae feed inside foliage tips, causing individual sections to turn yellow or brown. Examine affected tips closely before assuming the cause is drought.
Twig and Tip Blights
Several fungi can cause tip browning or branch dieback, particularly on stressed plants. Improve airflow, avoid unnecessary overhead irrigation, and prune confirmed infected growth during dry weather.
Root Rot
Phytophthora and other root-rotting organisms become most destructive in saturated soil. Prevention through proper drainage and planting depth is far more effective than attempting to save a tree after extensive root loss.
Should Arborvitae Be Staked?
Most small arborvitae do not need staking when planted correctly.
Large, top-heavy trees and those installed in very windy or exposed locations may benefit from temporary support. Stakes should stabilize the root ball while allowing the trunk to move slightly.
Use wide, flexible ties that will not cut into the bark. Inspect the ties regularly and remove temporary staking once the tree is securely rooted, usually within the first growing season.
Staking cannot correct a tree planted too deeply, a loose root ball, or saturated soil. Fix the planting problem rather than using stakes to hide it.
Can Arborvitae Grow in Containers?
Compact arborvitae can grow in large containers, particularly when used as entryway accents, patio evergreens, or temporary privacy features.
Choose a container with drainage holes and enough soil volume to support the root system. Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix rather than garden soil.
Container-grown arborvitae require more frequent moisture checks because their limited root zone dries faster than the surrounding soil. Water thoroughly when the upper layer of potting mix begins to dry.
Roots inside containers are also more vulnerable to winter cold. Select a variety hardier than your local zone, use an insulated weather-resistant container, and position it where it is protected from severe wind and temperature fluctuations.
Large arborvitae intended to become full-sized privacy trees are generally better planted in the ground.
Common Arborvitae Growing Mistakes
Most arborvitae failures can be traced to a small number of avoidable problems:
- Selecting a variety that becomes too large for the site.
- Planting in deep shade and expecting dense growth.
- Burying the root flare.
- Digging the hole deeper than the root ball.
- Planting in soil that remains saturated.
- Allowing the original root ball to dry after planting.
- Watering the soil surface without soaking the root zone.
- Overwatering without checking soil moisture.
- Planting trees too close together.
- Piling mulch against the trunks.
- Applying heavy fertilizer to force faster growth.
- Cutting branches into old, bare wood.
- Topping the trees to control height.
- Ignoring bagworms until severe defoliation occurs.
- Failing to protect vulnerable varieties from deer.
- Allowing newly planted trees to enter winter drought-stressed.
Avoid these mistakes, and arborvitae become considerably easier to grow.
An Annual Arborvitae Care Calendar
Late Winter
Inspect the trees for split branches, snow damage, deer browsing, winter burn, and bagworm bags. Remove reachable bagworm bags before the eggs hatch. Avoid cutting winter-burned foliage until recovery becomes clear.
Early Spring
Check soil moisture, mulch depth, planting height, and overall structure. Remove confirmed dead or broken branches. Fertilize only when soil conditions and plant growth indicate a need.
Late Spring
Watch for new growth and inspect the foliage for bagworm hatch, mites, scale, leafminers, or tip dieback. Perform light shaping while retaining green foliage on every pruned branch.
Summer
Water deeply during extended dry weather. Check irrigation systems and inspect individual trees rather than assuming the entire hedge receives equal water.
Fall
Expect some normal interior foliage shedding. Water during dry periods, renew mulch as needed, install deer protection, and prepare exposed trees for winter winds.
Winter
Gently remove loose snow from vulnerable branches. Monitor deer protection and avoid using deicing salts near the root zone.
Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Arborvitae
Are arborvitae easy to grow?
Arborvitae are relatively easy to grow when planted in adequate sunlight, well-drained soil, and a location large enough for the selected variety. Most failures involve planting depth, inconsistent watering, poor drainage, crowding, or deer damage.
How far apart should arborvitae be planted for privacy?
Spacing depends on the variety. Emerald Green Arborvitae can be planted approximately two to three feet apart for a tight hedge, while Green Giant Arborvitae are commonly planted about five to six feet apart for a solid privacy screen.
How far should arborvitae be planted from a fence?
Use the tree's mature width to calculate the distance. Ideally, most of the mature canopy should remain on your side of the fence, with enough room left for maintenance access.
What is the fastest-growing arborvitae?
Green Giant Arborvitae and American Pillar Arborvitae are among the fastest-growing choices commonly used for privacy. Green Giant becomes substantially wider, while American Pillar maintains a narrower footprint.
How long does an arborvitae privacy screen take to fill in?
The time depends on tree size at planting, variety, spacing, sunlight, water, soil, and climate. Fast-growing varieties may begin providing meaningful coverage within several seasons, while formal narrow cultivars generally fill in more gradually.
Can arborvitae grow in shade?
Arborvitae tolerate partial shade, but they usually become thinner and grow more slowly as sunlight decreases. Full sun produces the densest privacy screen.
Can arborvitae grow in clay soil?
Yes, provided the clay drains adequately. Compacted or saturated clay can suffocate roots and cause yellowing, browning, or tree death.
Should arborvitae be fertilized every year?
No. Healthy trees growing normally may not require annual fertilization. Test the soil and investigate sunlight, drainage, watering, and root problems before feeding a struggling tree.
When should arborvitae be pruned?
Light pruning can be done in late winter, spring, or shortly after the spring growth flush. Avoid cutting into old, leafless wood because it may not regrow.
Can you cut the top off an arborvitae?
Topping is not recommended. It destroys the natural leader and shape, exposes bare wood, and may cause weak multiple leaders. Choose a cultivar that fits the desired mature height.
Why is my arborvitae turning brown inside?
Limited browning of older interior foliage during fall is usually normal. Browning at branch tips, on entire sides, or across the whole tree may indicate drought, winter burn, poor drainage, root damage, salt, pests, or disease.
Will a brown arborvitae turn green again?
Brown foliage will not become green again. Living branches may produce new growth from sections that still carry viable green tissue, but bare old wood generally does not regenerate reliably.
How can I tell whether my arborvitae is dead?
Scratch a small area of bark on a questionable branch. Green tissue beneath the bark indicates life, while dry brown tissue suggests the branch is dead. Test several branches before deciding whether the entire tree has died.
Are arborvitae poisonous?
Arborvitae foliage contains compounds that should not be eaten by people or pets. The trees are intended for ornamental landscape use.
How long do arborvitae trees live?
Arborvitae can live for many decades when the variety is suited to the climate and the tree has adequate soil, moisture, sunlight, and growing space.
Woodie's Take: Grow the Hedge You Want Ten Years from Now
When homeowners plant arborvitae, they naturally focus on how quickly the trees will block the view today. I want them to think about the hedge they will have in ten or twenty years.
A Green Giant and an Emerald Green may look similar when they arrive in small containers, but they are not interchangeable trees. One can become a broad, towering evergreen, while the other maintains a narrow, more formal shape. That difference should determine where they are planted and how far apart they are spaced.
The best arborvitae hedge is not necessarily the one planted closest together or fertilized the most heavily. It is the one built with the right variety, enough sunlight, dependable drainage, consistent establishment watering, and enough room for each tree to mature without fighting its neighbors.
Give the roots a good beginning, watch the water, inspect for bagworms, and protect vulnerable trees from deer. Then allow the arborvitae to do what it does best—grow into a living evergreen wall that makes the property feel more private, more finished, and more enjoyable in every season.