The Ultimate Guide to Growing Cedar Trees
By Richard "Woodie" Buller, GGD co-founder with 35+ years in horticulture
Published On: Nov 3, 2026
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Introduction
A well-placed cedar tree can become one of the defining features of a garden. Blue needles catch the light, graceful branches soften an open lawn, and evergreen foliage gives the landscape something substantial to enjoy through winter.
But "cedar" describes several different kinds of trees. A Blue Atlas Cedar, an Eastern Red Cedar, and a Japanese cedar have different growth habits, hardiness ranges, and moisture needs.
Growing cedar trees successfully starts with knowing which one you're planting. This guide will help you choose a suitable tree, give it enough room, and manage the watering, pruning, and seasonal care that support healthy growth.
| In this Article | |||
|---|---|---|---|
What Are Cedar Trees?
True cedars belong to the genus Cedrus. Blue Atlas Cedar and Deodar Cedar are examples, with evergreen needles and branching that becomes increasingly distinctive as they mature.
Other trees carry "cedar" in their common names but belong to different genera. Eastern Red Cedar is a juniper, Juniperus virginiana. Japanese cedar is Cryptomeria japonica.
That distinction matters in the garden. It helps explain why one cedar tolerates dry ground well while another performs best with dependable moisture.
| Cedar group | Botanical identity | Main landscape character |
|---|---|---|
| Blue Atlas Cedar | Cedrus atlantica 'Glauca' | Blue needles and broad, sculptural branching |
| Deodar Cedar | Cedrus deodara | Gray-green needles and graceful, drooping branch tips |
| Eastern Red Cedar | Juniperus virginiana | Native evergreen screening and wildlife value |
| Japanese cedar | Cryptomeria japonica cultivars | Fine-textured foliage and varied evergreen forms |
"The name on the tag is the beginning. Knowing how that tree grows is what helps you put it in the right place." — Woodie
Choosing the Right Cedar Tree for Your Landscape
Start with your climate and available space. Then decide whether you need a focal point, privacy, a windbreak, or a smaller evergreen accent.
A broad, true cedar deserves an open planting area where its branches can develop. A large Japanese cedar needs enough bed depth to retain its lower foliage. A compact Cryptomeria suits a different scale altogether.
Check mature width as carefully as height. A tree that fits beneath the sky can still outgrow the planting bed around it.
Cedar Tree Varieties at a Glance
These dimensions are planning estimates from the individual listings. Trees may grow larger over time under favorable conditions.
| Tree | Listed hardiness zones | Approximate mature height | Approximate mature width | Ornamental features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blue Atlas Cedar | 6–9 | 45–60 feet | 30–40 feet | Silvery-blue needles; broad architectural branches |
| Deodar Cedar | 7–9 | 40–50 feet | 30–40 feet | Gray-green needles; pendulous branch tips |
| Eastern Red Cedar | 3–9 | 40–50 feet | 10–20 feet | Dense foliage; blue berry-like cones on female trees |
| Cryptomeria Radicans | 5–8 | 30–40 feet | 15–20 feet | Fine-textured foliage; upright evergreen form |
| Yoshino Japanese Cedar | 5–8 | 30–40 feet | 20–30 feet | Pyramidal form; soft evergreen texture |
| Black Dragon Cryptomeria | 5–9 | 6–10 feet | 4–8 feet | Dark foliage; dense, irregular pyramidal habit |
Use the exact variety's rating when planning. Hardiness alone does not account for drainage, summer drought, or winter exposure.
Growing Blue Atlas Cedar
Blue Atlas Cedar is a specimen tree for a landscape with ample room for broad branches. Its silvery-blue needles provide color throughout the year, while its form becomes more expressive with age.
Plant it in a sunny location with good drainage. An open lawn or spacious island bed lets the tree develop without crowding buildings or neighboring plants.
Young trees can look relatively open. Allow the branching to mature naturally rather than trying to turn the tree into a tightly sheared hedge.
Blue Atlas Cedar becomes more drought-tolerant after establishment, but new roots still need consistent moisture checks.
Growing Deodar Cedar
Deodar Cedar brings a softer outline to the landscape. Its drooping branch tips and broad pyramidal form make it useful as a large evergreen focal point.
Choose a sunny, well-drained site within its suitable climate range. Protection from harsh winds is helpful, particularly while the tree is young.
Its graceful shape needs space. Avoid planting it where repeated branch removal will be necessary to keep paths, windows, or neighboring plants clear.
Deodar Cedar is less cold-hardy than several other trees commonly called cedars. Do not assume it belongs wherever Eastern Red Cedar grows.
Growing Eastern Red Cedar
Eastern Red Cedar is a North American native juniper valued for adaptability, screening, and habitat.
It performs best in full sun and well-drained soil. Once established, it tolerates dry conditions well and can grow in relatively lean or rocky ground.
Female trees produce blue berry-like cones that birds enjoy. Male trees produce pollen cones, so not every individual will carry the same fruit display.
Eastern Red Cedar can be useful in open property borders and native-style plantings. Avoid continually wet soil, and account for cedar-apple rust if susceptible apples or crabapples grow nearby.
Growing Japanese Cedar Trees
Japanese cedars offer fine-textured evergreen foliage and several different landscape forms. They generally prefer moist, well-drained soil and adequate light.
Cryptomeria Radicans
Cryptomeria Radicans is useful for substantial evergreen screening where its mature width fits.
Give it a broad planting area with sun to partial shade. Maintain moisture during establishment and later dry spells rather than expecting it to perform like a dry-site juniper.
Yoshino Japanese Cedar
Yoshino develops a substantial pyramidal tree suitable for larger borders and as an evergreen backdrop.
Its mature spread makes it important to plan the planting line carefully. Leave room between future branches and fences, drives, or property boundaries.
Black Dragon Cryptomeria
Black Dragon offers a much smaller form with dark foliage and an irregular pyramidal habit.
Use it as a specimen in a mixed border or a smaller evergreen accent. It still needs room for its eventual spread and should not be squeezed directly against a foundation.
Its natural shape usually needs little intervention.
Best Cedar Trees for Privacy
Eastern Red Cedar, Cryptomeria Radicans, and Yoshino Japanese Cedar are useful screening choices when their growing conditions are met.
Choose according to the planting area. Eastern Red Cedar suits sunny, well-drained sites where established drought tolerance matters. Radicans and Yoshino prefer more dependable moisture.
Blue Atlas and Deodar cedars can contribute to a broad evergreen boundary, but their spreading, ornamental forms often work best where they can be appreciated individually.
A privacy planting should allow the trees to retain healthy lower branches. Crowding, shade, and insufficient bed depth can undermine that goal.
How Far Apart Should You Plant Cedar Trees?
Spacing depends on the variety and the intended result. A continuous screen, a mixed border, and a specimen planting require different layouts.
Begin with mature width. Mark the proposed planting positions, then consider how the branches will overlap and whether you can still maintain the area.
Measure distances from buildings and fences using the future canopy, not the nursery pot. Leave room for access and airflow.
Avoid using one spacing rule for every cedar. Black Dragon and Blue Atlas Cedar have very different footprints.
"A little open space around a young tree is room for its future. Give it that room now." — Woodie
How Much Sun Do Cedar Trees Need?
Blue Atlas Cedar, Deodar Cedar, and Eastern Red Cedar perform best in full sun.
Japanese cedars tolerate partial shade, but adequate light supports fuller growth. Dense overhead shade can leave an evergreen screen thinner than expected.
Observe the planting area during the growing season, especially near deciduous trees. Winter sunlight does not always reflect summer conditions.
Best Soil for Growing Cedar Trees
Good drainage is a priority across these cedar choices.
Blue Atlas and Deodar cedars tolerate a range of soils when water moves through the root zone. Eastern Red Cedar adapts to leaner conditions but should not remain waterlogged.
Japanese cedars prefer moisture-retentive, well-drained soil and generally do well in slightly acidic conditions.
Test the soil before making major pH or fertilizer adjustments. Address compaction or drainage across the planting area rather than creating a heavily amended pocket inside the hole.
When to Plant Cedar Trees
Spring and early fall are generally convenient seasons for planting containerized cedar trees.
Choose a time when the soil is workable, and you can maintain moisture. Avoid frozen or saturated ground.
Summer planting can work, but heat and wind increase the attention new roots need. In colder locations, give fall-planted evergreens time to establish before winter exposure increases.
How to Plant Containerized Cedar Trees
Water a dry root ball before planting, then remove the container and inspect the roots.
Dig a hole roughly two to three times wider than the root ball without making it unnecessarily deep. Correct circling roots and locate the root flare—the area where the trunk broadens into the main roots.
Set the tree with the root flare at the finished soil surface. Backfill with native soil and water thoroughly to allow it to settle.
Apply mulch across the planting area, keeping it away from the trunk. Handle the tree by its container or root ball rather than lifting it by the trunk.
Stake only if the root ball is unstable or exposure makes support necessary. Check ties regularly and remove supports once the tree is stable.
Watering Cedar Trees
New trees need regular moisture checks, even when the mature plant is drought-tolerant.
Check the original root ball and surrounding soil. They can dry at different rates, and a brief shower may wet the surface without reaching the roots.
Apply water slowly over the root zone. Adjust the frequency based on rainfall, temperature, wind, and drainage, then expand the watered area as the roots spread.
After establishment, Eastern Red Cedar usually needs less supplemental water than Japanese cedar. Cryptomeria looks best when it avoids repeated severe drought.
Trees can take several seasons to establish. Continue checking them during dry periods beyond the first year.
Mulching Around Cedar Trees
A shallow mulch layer helps conserve moisture, reduce weeds, and separate the trunk from lawn equipment.
Apply approximately two to three inches across the root-zone area, leaving several inches clear around the trunk.
Check the existing depth before adding more. A broad, shallow ring is more useful than a deep pile against the bark.
Fertilizing Cedar Trees
Healthy cedar trees may need little supplemental fertilizer.
Use soil testing and growth observations to decide whether feeding is warranted. Choose nutrients that address a demonstrated need and follow label rates.
Do not use fertilizer as the first response to browning foliage or weak growth. Poor drainage, drought, planting depth, and root problems can produce symptoms that feeding will not resolve.
Avoid heavy late-season applications that encourage tender growth.
When and How to Prune Cedar Trees
Pruning should support a tree's structure and natural form.
Remove dead, damaged, or poorly placed branches as needed. For light structural work, late winter or early spring is often practical, provided you account for the tree's condition and local weather.
| Tree | Pruning priority |
|---|---|
| Blue Atlas Cedar | Preserve broad branching; avoid heavy shearing |
| Deodar Cedar | Retain graceful form and a sound central structure |
| Eastern Red Cedar | Shape lightly; avoid cuts into bare old wood |
| Radicans and Yoshino | Preserve lower foliage and the natural pyramidal outline |
| Black Dragon | Keep intervention minimal; retain its irregular form |
Do not top a cedar to solve a placement problem. Topping damages the structure and does not permanently reduce the tree's size.
For major work or branches beyond safe reach, use a qualified arborist.
Why Is My Cedar Tree Turning Brown?
Browning is a symptom, not a diagnosis. Its location, timing, and extent help identify the cause.
| What you see | Possible explanation | First step |
|---|---|---|
| Older interior foliage is browning while tips remain healthy | Normal foliage turnover may be involved | Observe the pattern and whether new growth remains healthy |
| Dry foliage after hot weather | Moisture stress | Check the root ball and surrounding soil |
| Decline in a wet planting area | Poor drainage or root injury | Assess drainage before adding water |
| Exposed foliage browning after winter | Winter injury or drying winds | Check buds and wait for spring growth before major pruning |
| Hanging bags made from foliage and silk | Possible bagworms | Inspect closely and confirm identification |
| Woody galls with orange projections on Eastern Red Cedar | Possible cedar-apple rust | Identify the rust and assess nearby susceptible plants |
| Progressive tip or branch dieback | Root, insect, disease, or environmental problem | Inspect the whole tree and seek a diagnosis if decline continues |
Some Cryptomeria foliage changes color during cold weather. Distinguish seasonal bronzing from brittle foliage, dead shoots, or progressive decline.
Bagworms on Cedar Trees
Bagworms build small hanging bags from silk and plant material. Heavy infestations can damage evergreen foliage.
Inspect smaller trees regularly. Accessible bags can be removed and destroyed before eggs hatch.
When treatment is needed, timing matters: young caterpillars are easier to manage than mature larvae protected inside larger bags. Use local guidance rather than assuming the same calendar applies everywhere.
Cedar-Apple Rust and Eastern Red Cedar
Cedar-apple rust involves junipers, including Eastern Red Cedar, and susceptible apples or crabapples.
The juniper host may develop woody galls that produce orange, gelatinous projections during wet spring weather.
This relationship does not apply equally to true Cedrus trees or Japanese cedars simply because their common names include "cedar."
Consider rust susceptibility when planning plantings near fruit trees. Removing one nearby juniper does not guarantee prevention because spores can travel from other sources.
Winter Care for Cedar Trees
Maintain appropriate moisture through fall while the ground remains unfrozen. Evergreen foliage continues losing moisture during winter.
Young trees in exposed sites may benefit from a freestanding wind barrier. Keep salty runoff away from roots.
Avoid pulling ice from branches or trying to force bent limbs back into position. Assess damage carefully, and wait for spring growth before making extensive cuts into browned foliage.
Choose a suitable hardiness first. Winter protection supports establishment but cannot reliably compensate for the wrong climate.
Using Cedar Trees in Landscape Design
Blue Atlas Cedar creates a strong focal point, with its blue needles and branches standing out. Deodar Cedar brings a softer silhouette to spacious lawns.
Eastern Red Cedar suits naturalistic boundaries and wildlife plantings. Japanese cedars provide evergreen mass for borders, with Black Dragon offering a smaller-scale option.
Place specimen trees where their shape can be appreciated from several viewpoints. Use screening trees where their mature height and width solve a practical need.
In wildfire-prone regions, follow local defensible-space guidance when locating these resinous evergreens.
A Few Words From Woodie
"The best cedar planting gives the tree room to become itself. Choose carefully, plant it well, and let its character develop." — Woodie
Think beyond the first season. A young cedar may look modest, but its branches, roots, and silhouette will become part of the landscape for years.
Give it a suitable site and steady establishment care. Once those basics are right, you can spend more time enjoying the tree and less time trying to correct its placement.
Final Thoughts
Growing cedar trees successfully begins with choosing the right botanical type for your climate and landscape.
Blue Atlas and Deodar cedars offer distinctive specimen forms. Eastern Red Cedar brings native habitat value and established drought tolerance. Japanese cedars provide a fine-textured evergreen structure in several sizes.
Plan for mature growth, prioritize drainage, and maintain moisture while roots establish. With thoughtful placement and restrained pruning, a cedar can become a lasting feature of your garden.
Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Cedar Trees
Are all cedar trees true cedars?
No. Blue Atlas and Deodar cedars belong to the genus Cedrus. Eastern Red Cedar is a juniper, while Japanese cedar belongs to Cryptomeria. Their growing requirements differ.
How much sun do cedar trees need?
Blue Atlas, Deodar, and Eastern Red Cedar perform best in full sun. Japanese cedars tolerate partial shade, but adequate light supports fuller growth.
What soil is best for cedar trees?
Good drainage is important. Japanese cedars prefer reliable moisture and generally slightly acidic soil, while established Eastern Red Cedar tolerates leaner, drier conditions.
How often should I water a newly planted cedar?
Check the root ball and surrounding soil frequently, then water slowly as needed. Adjust to rainfall, heat, wind, and drainage rather than following one fixed schedule.
When should I prune cedar trees?
Late winter or early spring is often suitable for light structural pruning. Preserve the natural form, avoid topping, and do not cut Eastern Red Cedar deeply into bare old wood.
Why is my cedar tree turning brown?
Browning can result from foliage turnover, drought, winter injury, poor drainage, or pests. Examine the pattern and soil conditions before deciding on treatment.
Are cedar trees good for privacy?
Eastern Red Cedar, Cryptomeria Radicans, and Yoshino Japanese Cedar can provide substantial evergreen screening. Choose a tree whose mature width and moisture needs fit the site.
Does cedar-apple rust affect every cedar tree?
No. Cedar-apple rust involves susceptible junipers, including Eastern Red Cedar, and apples or crabapples. True Cedrus trees and Japanese cedars are not the juniper hosts of this disease.