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Eastern Red Cedar Trees for Sale Online
Eastern Red Cedar Trees or Juniperus virginiana is a large, dense, native evergreen tree that is generally seen throughout the eastern United States. Eastern Red Cedar is indigenous to most of the eastern seaboard and midwest, which means it is ideally suited for most growing conditions and areas.
About Your Eastern Red Cedar Tree
Its foliage is dark blue to green and turns bronze in the winter. Female Eastern Red Cedar Trees produce an abundance of grayish green berries that are eaten by birds and other wildlife. Eastern Red Cedar has a high salt tolerance and can handle just about any soil type so they are safe to be planted by a road where salt is used in the winter. They can be used as a native privacy screening tree and are an essential plant to any Native garden or landscape in the Northeast. It is also known as Juniperis virginiana.
Fertilizing Eastern Red Cedar Trees
Either chemical fertilizers or organic matter can be used successfully with Eastern Red Cedar Trees. Since an organic method of applying manure and compost around the roots, produces excellent results and also improves the condition of the soil, this would be an excellent first line of attack. Organic additions to the soil can also be combined with a shot of chemical fertilizer for maximum effect.
If chemical fertilizers are used on your Eastern Red Cedar Trees, applying a slow-release, balanced fertilizer once a year is probably the simplest solution. There are many slow-release fertilizers on the market. If you can find a fertilizer formulated for shrubs and trees, this fertilizer would work well on Junipers. However, slow-release is certainly not the only way to fertilizer Junipers such as Eastern Red Cedar Trees. A less expensive fast release fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 will work just as well if applied twice during the early spring and early summer. If you are looking for a fertilizing routine tailored to your specific conditions, a soil sample should be taken and the fertilizer and trace elements matched to the needs of your soil.
Don’t fertilize Eastern Red Cedar Trees after August. Fall is the time for junipers to begin preparing for dormancy. Fertilizing at this time may stimulate new growth that will be too tender to withstand the winter. In the South, a late May application and another in July would be about right. More northern areas may wish to fertilize only once in June or July with fast release fertilizer.
The amount of chemical fertilizer used per plant will vary with the size of the plant and it’s root system. Use less fertilizer for junipers in a container. Over-fertilization can be much more detrimental than under-fertilization. Fertilizer burn can occur when too much fertilizer is applied, resulting in a drying out of the roots and damage or even death of the Eastern Red Cedar.It is much, much better to err on the side of too little fertilizer than too much. When roots are burned, the first sign is often scorched looking needles. If over fertilization is severe, the plant may just turn brown and die.
History and Introduction of Eastern Red Cedar Trees
Fossil evidence indicates that the Eastern Red Cedar tree is an ancient tree dating back to aboriginal America. This once abundant species covered vast potions of the North American continent and was so noteworthy in Roanoke Island 1564 early explorers Arthur Barlowe and Phillip Amadus were quoted saying "Eastern Red Cedar trees are the tallest and reddest cedars in the world". During the colonial period Eastern Red Cedar trees were commonly used to make furniture and fences because it was an easy wood to work with and has superior weathering ability.
Eastern Red Cedar, Red Cedar, Eastern redcedar, and Upright Juniper
|Mature Height:||15 to 20 Feet|
|Mature width:||3 to 6 Feet|
|Sunlight:||Full sun to part shade|
|Foliage Color:||Blue green|
|Pruning Season:||Prune in late winter before new growth or after new growth hardens off in summer|
|Soil Condition:||Any well drained slightly acidic soil|
|Water Require:||Water well until established|
|Common Names:||Eastern Red Cedar, Red Cedar, Eastern redcedar, and Upright Juniper|
|Uses:||Tolerates heat, drought and salt Spray. Full sun brings out the best fall color. Will adapt to slightly moist sites|
How to Care for Eastern Red Cedar Tree
For the best results follow these guidelines.
Step 1: Planting Eastern Red Cedar Trees
We suggest when planting your newly purchased Eastern Red Cedar Trees that you dig a hole twice as wide as the root system but not deeper. Depending on the quality of your existing soil you may need to add a locally sourced compost or topsoil to the back-fill soil. We do not recommend using straight topsoil or compost as a back-fill soil because more times than not these products will retain entirely to much moisture and will cause the root system to rot. Adding compost or topsoil will help the young feeder roots of Eastern Red Cedar Trees to spread through the loose, nutrient rich soil, much easier than if you used solely the existing soil which more times than not will be hard and compacted. The most common cause of plant death after transplanting is planting the new plant to deep. That is why we do not recommend planting in a hole any deeper than the soil line of the plant in the pot. A good rule is that you should still be able to see the soil the plant was grown in after back-filling the hole.
Step 2: Fertilizing Eastern Red Cedar Trees
Upright junipers such as Eastern Red Cedar Trees grow best if they are fertilized lightly in the spring once frost has passed with a well-balanced, extended-release, fertilizer such as Espoma Tree-tone or Holly tone to provide the extra acid that junipers crave. Fertilize Eastern Red Cedar Trees again in late summer to mid-fall. Eastern Red Cedar will still thrive in a landscape with no additional fertilizer so if you don’t even like the idea of not having fertilizer in your garden you can still plan on seeing Eastern Red Cedar Trees thrive. Look around wild areas of your location and you’ll start to notice Eastern Red Cedar Trees just about everywhere in the wild untamed lands in your region.
Step 3: Watering Eastern Red Cedar Trees
After back filling and lightly compacting the 50 50 mix of existing soil and compost give the Eastern Red Cedar Trees good deep watering. This is not to be rushed. Most of the water you put on the plant at first will run away from the plant until the soil is soaked. A general rule of thumb is to count to 5 for every one gallon of pot size. For example a one gallon pot would be watered until you count to 5 a three gallon pot would be 15 and so on. Check the plant daily for the first week or so and then every other day there after. Water using the counting method for the first few weeks.
How should I prune my Eastern Red Cedar Trees?
Cut young Eastern Red Cedar Trees to leave only a single vertical stem, known as the central leader. Choose the healthiest and straightest of multiple leaders, and cut the remaining vertical stems back to the ground or point of origin with the main trunk. Cut any dead branches back to the point of origin on the parent stem or back to the central leader trunk. Leave at least a bit of green foliage on the branch, if possible, so it can produce vigorous new growth; sometimes a branch is completely dead, so you can simply cut it back to the trunk. Cut broken branches back to the nearest point of intersection with a healthy, unbroken branch. If possible, avoid cutting branches so far back that you expose the dead zone — the area within a juniper in which branches are not actually dead, but they do not grow foliage because they are not exposed to light. Clipping the green tips of branches encourages a new flush of growth, but new growth will not develop from the tips of branches in the dead zone because this is old wood. Cut the top of the Eastern Red Cedar back to its joint with a lateral branch, if needed, to control the height, but do not cut down into the dead zone. If you cut only the green portion of the top, then a new central leader will develop; cutting into the dead zone leaves a flat top that is undesirable for pyramidal plants. Thin out as much as 20 percent of the total juniper foliage, cutting the branches back to the central leader or trunk to open up the remaining branches to airflow and sunlight. The dead and broken branches count toward the total 20 percent, and other branches should be chosen carefully so you don’t disrupt the shape or leave gaping holes that allow you to see into the inner dead zone. Step back from the juniper and observe its shape. Trim any branches that stick out from the basic pyramidal shape, clipping each back to the intersection with a lateral branch so the cuts are not obvious and a new tip will develop. Trim individual branches as needed to maintain the shape at any time throughout the year. If a few branches become too long, you can cut them back to maintain the shape at any time, but severe or more thorough pruning should only be done in early spring.