Growing Zone: 4 to 9
Mature Height: 10 to 12 feet
Mature width: 4 to 6 feet
Classification: Evergreen shrub / small tree
Sunlight: Full Sun to Part Shade
Habit: Upright, conical
Foliage: Blue Green
Flower Color: Inconspicuous
Pruning Season: Prune in late winter before new growth or after new growth hardens off in summer.
Soil Condition: Any well drained slightly acidic soil
Water Require: Water well until established.
Uses: Tolerates heat and drought. Full sun brings out the best fall color. Will adapt to slightly moist sites.
Does Not Ship To: CA, WA, OR, AZ
Blue Point Juniper is a very hardy, fast growing upright juniper with a very pyramidal, columnar growth habit. It can withstand drought & windy conditions better than most upright junipers. Good choice for privacy borders, wind screens, as well as accent & group plantings. Retains excellent color through the winter. Prefers slightly acidic, well drained soil. Full sun to part shade..
Planting Blue Point Juniper:
We suggest when planting your newly purchased Blue Point Juniper plants that you dig a hole twice as wide as the root system but not deeper. Depending on the quality of your existing soil you may need to add a locally sourced compost or topsoil to the back-fill soil. We do not recommend using straight topsoil or compost as a back-fill soil because more times than not these products will retain entirely to much moisture and will cause the root system to rot. Adding compost or topsoil will help the young feeder roots of Blue Point Juniper to spread through the loose, nutrient rich soil, much easier than if you used solely the existing soil which more times than not will be hard and compacted. The most common cause of plant death after transplanting is planting the new plant to deep. That is why we do not recommend planting in a hole any deeper than the soil line of the plant in the pot. A good rule is that you should still be able to see the soil the plant was grown in after back-filling the hole. Bio-tone starter fertilizer is a great starter fertilizer that provides plants with mycorrhizae fungus. It is a naturally occuring beneficial fungus that colonizes on the new growing roots of plants. It creates a barrier between the roots of the plant and fungus and pathogens that can cause root rot. We love this product and use it on all plants we install in our own gardens. Bio-tone is a gardeners best friend and can help guarantee your success.
Watering Blue Point Juniper:
After back filling and lightly compacting the 50/50 mix of existing soil and compost give the Blue Point Juniper a good deep watering. This is not to be rushed. Most of the water you put on the plant at first will run away from the plant until the soil is soaked. A general rule of thumb is to count to 5 for every one gallon of pot size. For example a one gallon pot would be watered until you count to 5 a three gallon pot would be 15 and so on. Check the plant daily for the first week or so and then every other day there after. Water using the counting method for the first few weeks. Gator bag Jr. can be used to help aid in this process and also provide plants with a good soaking due to the slow release of the water into the root-zone of the plant. Soaker Hoses can also be used to water when planting a long hedge.
Fertilizing Blue Point Juniper:
Upright junipers such as Blue Point Juniper grow best if they are fertilized lightly in the spring once frost has passed with a well-balanced, extended-release, fertilizer such as espoma Tree-tone or Holly tone to provide the extra acid that junipers crave. Fertilize Blue point juniper again in late summer to mid-fall.
Either chemical fertilizers or organic matter can be used successfully with Junipers. Since an organic method of applying manure and/or compost around the roots, produces excellent results and also improves the condition of the soil, this would be an excellent first line of attack. Organic additions to the soil can also be combined with a shot of chemical fertilizer for maximum effect.
If chemical fertilizers are used on your Blue Point Juniper, applying a slow-release, balanced fertilizer once a year is probably the simplest solution. There are many slow-release fertilizers on the market. If you can find a fertilizer formulated for shrubs and trees, this fertilizer would work well on Junipers. However, slow-release is certainly not the only way to fertilizer Junipers such as Blue Point Juniper. A less expensive fast release fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 will work just as well if applied twice during the early spring and early summer. If you are looking for a fertilizing routine tailored to your specific conditions, a soil sample should be taken and the fertilizer and trace elements matched to the needs of your soil.
Don’t fertilize Blue Point Juniper after August. Fall is the time for junipers to begin preparing for dormancy. Fertilizing at this time may stimulate new growth that will be too tender to withstand the winter. In the South, a late May application and another in July would be about right. More northern areas may wish to fertilize only once in June or July with fast release fertilizer.
The amount of chemical fertilizer used per plant will vary with the size of the plant and it’s root system. (Use less fertilizer for junipers in a container.) Over-fertilization can be much more detrimental than under-fertilization. “Fertilizer burn” can occur when too much fertilizer is applied, resulting in a drying out of the roots and damage or even death of the Blue Point Juniper.It is much, much better to err on the side of too little fertilizer than too much. When roots are burned, the first sign is often scorched looking needles. If over-fertilization is severe, the plant may just turn brown and die.
If you are a beginner at growing plants Blue Point Juniper is very easy to grow however it may be helpful to know that a very small plant which is planted in the ground will take about 1/8 – 1/4 cup of fertilizer. When fertilizing Junipers in pots, be careful to apply a fertilizer that will not burn the roots (such as a slow release or a liquid fertilizer). A very large shrub in the ground will take 2 – 3 cups spread around the drip line of the branches (not next to the trunk). This is a very loose estimate, so please read the directions on the fertilizer before applying it.
Never fertilize a plant with a chemical fertilizer if the plant looks sick or wilted. If a plant is struggling due to a disease or root problems, the fertilizer will only add stress to it’s life. Try to cure the problem before adding fertilizer.
When looking at most fertilizers, they are described by three numbers on the bag. An example would be 10-10-10 or 12-4-8. The first of these three numbers refers to Nitrogen, which is the primary element necessary for good, balanced growth within the Blue Point Juniper. Plants that are deficient in Nitrogen are usually not growing vigorously, and sometimes exhibit pale colored foliage as in the case of gardenia’s. Not all Nitrogen deficiencies result in stunted growth. Sometimes, the growth is taller and longer with less than desirable branching when Nitrogen is deficient. The second number in the fertilizer equation is representative of Phosphorus. A deficiency of Phosphorus may affect the energy transfer in the plant, and result in stunted growth as well. Also, plants with insufficient amounts of Phosphorus may have poorer root systems. Potassium is the element represented by the third number on the fertilizer bag. Plants that are deficient in Potassium, are usually growing more slowly than normal, have fewer flowers and seed, and are more susceptible to disease than plants with adequate levels of Potassium. Although the three elements just mentioned are the major elements necessary for good plant performance, there some minor elements that are just as important in consideration of Blue point juniper nutrition.
Minor elements that are not included in the three numbers listing on the front of fertilizer bags are very important considerations when choosing your juniper fertilizer. Elements such as Magnesium, Sulfur, Calcium, Iron, Manganese, Copper, Zinc, Boron, and Molybdenum play very important roles in providing junipers with adequate nutrition. Many times, less expensive fertilizers are sold that contain only the major elements needed, but not the minor elements. Always be sure to look on the fertilizer label on the back of the bag to see exactly what is included in the fertilizer.
In choosing the basic type of fertilizer for your Blue Point Juniper, it is important to determine what you want your Blue Point Juniper to do. If your plants are well established, and you are not concerned about more growth, choose a fertilizer that has a smaller first number, and a larger second and third number.
When you have selected your fertilizer and are ready to apply it, be sure to rake your mulch back to the drip line of each plant. Apply the fertilizer according to the label directions immediately on top of the soil, and be sure to water the plant thoroughly after the application. You can then rake the mulch back around the base of the Blue Point Juniper. Although it is tempting to spend less time by not raking the mulch back during fertilization, the results will be less than desirable, if the fertilizer is applied on top of the mulch.
Proper fertilization of your Blue Point Juniper will lead to healthier and more disease resistant plants, as well as provide you with many more enjoyable blue color. Always, read the label on your fertilizer bag, and follow the instructions.
Mulching Blue Point Juniper:
We highly recommend that you mulch your Blue Point Juniper with either a ground hardwood mulch or a ground cypress mulch depending on your local availability. Any type of mulch will do but cypress or hardwood mulch will be of a higher quality and provide better nutrition overall as they breakdown. Mulching helps to keep weeds away which will compete with your new investment for water and nutrients. A 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch is sufficient but remember to take care not to cover any part of the stem of the plant with mulch. Its better to leave a one inch gap of space between the mulch and the stem or trunk of the plant.
Pruning Blue Point Juniper:
Cut young pyramidal junipers to leave only a single vertical stem, known as the central leader. Choose the healthiest and straightest of multiple leaders, and cut the remaining vertical stems back to the ground or point of origin with the main trunk. Prune the Blue Point Juniper in early spring after the last chance of frost and before buds set so that the new flush of growth has sufficient time to harden off over the summer before winter. Cut any dead branches back to the point of origin on the parent stem or back to the central leader trunk. Leave at least a bit of green foliage on the branch, if possible, so it can produce vigorous new growth; sometimes a branch is completely dead, so you can simply cut it back to the trunk. Cut broken branches back to the nearest point of intersection with a healthy, unbroken branch. If possible, avoid cutting branches so far back that you expose the dead zone — the area within a juniper in which branches are not actually dead, but they do not grow foliage because they are not exposed to light. Clipping the green tips of branches encourages a new flush of growth, but new growth will not develop from the tips of branches in the dead zone because this is old wood. Cut the top of the Blue Point Juniper back to its joint with a lateral branch, if needed, to control the height, but do not cut down into the dead zone. If you cut only the green portion of the top, then a new central leader will develop; cutting into the dead zone leaves a flat top that is undesirable for pyramidal plants. Thin out as much as 20 percent of the total juniper foliage, cutting the branches back to the central leader or trunk to open up the remaining branches to airflow and sunlight. The dead and broken branches count toward the total 20 percent, and other branches should be chosen carefully so you don’t disrupt the shape or leave gaping holes that allow you to see into the inner dead zone. tep back from the juniper and observe its shape. Trim any branches that stick out from the basic pyramidal shape, clipping each back to the intersection with a lateral branch so the cuts are not obvious and a new tip will develop. Trim individual branches as needed to maintain the shape at any time throughout the year. If a few branches become too long, you can cut them back to maintain the shape at any time, but severe or more thorough pruning should only be done in early spring.
In general gardening terms, pruning is probably the most misunderstood gardening chore, and certainly, the chore that is most likely neglected. When we specifically look at pruning with regards to junipers, this misunderstanding and negligence can be magnified.
Pruning has been described as a “combination of art and science.” I find pruning to be one of the most relaxing yet rewarding chores in the garden. Pruning a specific plant to look a specific way, involves art in creating a unique definition for a specific plant, and it involves science in understanding the physical growing habits of the plant to be pruned.
Another reason for pruning Blue Point Juniper is many times a plant may outgrow its intended size in the landscape, and must be pruned to re-define its purpose. Pruning should always be associated with re-invigorating a plant by allowing it to focus its energies on producing more vigorous branches, foliage, and flowers.
Specific plant objectives require specific pruning techniques. If an Blue Point Juniper is being trained as a hedge , it would need to be pruned differently than if it were being grown as a specimen form. Screenings and hedges of Blue Point Juniper would need to be pruned for their specific purpose within the landscape.