Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle Trees for Sale Online
The White flowering Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle is an exciting new Crape Myrtle hybrid that has the darkest black leaves anyone has seen on any Crape Myrtle. The white flowers pop against the dark leaves.
About Your Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle Trees
Growing Crape Myrtle Ebony and Ivory
Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle blooms in early summer with pure white flowers. It forms a small tree, with a dense, full shape. The foliage is a true black that contrasts well with the bright white flowers. It will bloom again in late summer if the first flush of flowers are deadheaded. It has excellent resistance to leaf spot and powdery mildew and is perfect to add a shot of summer color in a foundation planting or as an informal hedge. The Crape Myrtle was introduced to the US over 150 years ago from China, Japan and Southeast Asia. Each cluster within the Crape Myrtle has hundreds of flowers and each cluster can range from 8” to 16” long. The Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle has a broad and upright growing habit with small alternate leaves that are rounded at the base and are 1” to 2” long. The Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle has leaves that are truly black. The Crape myrtle Ebony and Ivory is adaptable to a wide range of soil types, very drought tolerant and has a good resistance to powdery mildew. Although crape myrtles are a staple in the Southeast United States, plants such as Crape Myrtle Ebony and Ivory are becoming increasingly common in the Northern areas such as St. Louis, Cincinnati, Philadelphia, and on Long Island. The eye-catching trees continue to enhance landscapes allowing gardeners everywhere to relish in their pure beauty. Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle features terminal, crepe-papery, 6-14" long inflorescences (panicles) of pure white flowers from mid-summer to early fall. Crape Myrtle Ebony and Ivory has flowers that give way to round seed capsules which often persist well into winter. In the South, Crape Myrtle Ebony and Ivory can easily be grown as a large woody shrub or trained as a small tree with a maximum size of 12' tall. Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle is an exciting new Crape Myrtle hybrid that has the darkest black leaves anyone has seen on any Crape Myrtle, or any other shrub or tree for that matter! During summer and into fall, Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle is covered with bright white flowers that contrast stunningly with the intense truly black leaves, which do not bleach out even in the hottest of summer sun. Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle is a mid-size Crape Myrtle with a relatively fast rate of growth to 10-12 feet in height with a spread of about 6-8 feet - the perfect mid sized flowering tree for today's smaller gardens!
|Mature Height:||8 to 10 feet|
|Mature Width:||6 to 8 feet|
|Classification:||mid-sized tree form (up to 10 feet)|
|Habit:||Deciduous, densely branched, multi-stemmed summer through the first frost|
|Flower Color:||pure white flowers in mid to late summer through the first frost|
|Foliage:||New growth emerges a rich dark purple black|
|Soil Condition:||Any well drained soil|
|Water Requirements:||Water well until established|
|Uses:||Extremely attractive when used as a focal point in the mixed border, mass planting, or a specimen planting|
How to Care for Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle Trees
We suggest when planting your newly purchased Ebony and Ivory Crape Myrtle plants that you dig a hole twice as wide as the root system but not deeper. Depending on the quality of your existing soil you may need to add a locally sourced compost or topsoil to the back-fill soil. We do not recommend using straight topsoil or compost as a back-fill soil because more times than not these products will retain entirely to much moisture and will cause the root system to rot. Adding compost or topsoil will help the young feeder roots to spread through the loose, nutrient rich soil, much easier than if you used solely the existing soil which more times than not will be hard and compacted. The most common cause of plant death after transplanting is planting the new plant to deep. That is why we do not recommend planting in a hole any deeper than the soil line of the plant in the pot. A good rule is that you should still be able to see the soil the plant was grown in after back-filling the hole.